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Cheap flights to dar es salaam. Adventure on the road to tanzania, dar es salaam Tanzania city of dar es salaam

Travel notes, Africa, day 4

Arrived in Tanzania this morning! Russians get a visa at the border, there are 3 options: a transit visa for $30, a regular one for $50, and a multivisa for $100. I planned to put a transit card, since I have a transit to Rwanda, but the Tanzanian border guard demanded a boarding pass for the next flight. And if there is no boarding pass, then not transit (although according to the rules it is written that transit can last 72 hours). I had to buy a regular one. After paying for the visa, you have to wait about 20 minutes until all the arrivals are pasted visas, then a border guard comes into the hall with a bundle of passports and, shouting out names, distributes the documents to the rightful owners.

Dar es Salaam is the former capital of Tanzania, and now simply the largest and richest city in the country. Tourists do not go to it, since there is nothing for a tourist to do there. But I'm not a tourist! So let's go see what's interesting there!

02. There are practically no residential buildings in the center - only offices and various state institutions. So it's relatively safe to walk around here.

04. Lots of old buildings.

05.

06. Golf course

07. The embassies of many countries are also located here. Two identical skyscrapers are the buildings of the Bank of Tanzania.

08.

09. There is a problem with food in Dar es Salaam. There are no good restaurants.

10 Local Twin Towers

11. Azania Front Lutheran Church, built by German missionaries at the end of the 19th century.

12. The building in the Bavarian style is perfectly preserved. Now it is one of the attractions of Dar es Salaam. Tanzania, by the way, is a multi-religious country, there are approximately equal numbers of Muslims, Christians and adherents of traditional African beliefs (usually a hellish mixture of pagan, Christian, Muslim and Jewish rituals and traditions).

13. The city has a lot of old colonial architecture

14. Old streets

15. Old buildings

16. Taxi drivers! There is Uber in Dar es Salaam! Worth every penny. An hour from the airport is $5.

17.

18. There are 125 different ethnic groups in Tanzania. The vast majority are of African origin, but there are Arabs, Indians, Chinese and Europeans, especially in Dar es Salaam. There used to be more Hindus and Arabs, but many of them were killed as a result of the Zanzibar Revolution of 1964.

19. Portraits of Tanzanian President John Pombe Magufuli are everywhere. A person has a rating of 90%, by the way. There is something to strive for! Next to him is Julius Nyerere, the author of socialism in Tanzanian and the best friend (well, one of) of the Soviet people.

20. Nelson Mandela, Nyerere and some other comrade.

21. City beach. It is better not to swim here.

22. The sewage pipe is rotten, and now the shit is poured not far into the sea, but right off the coast.

23. Here is the port of Dar es Salaam. From here ships sail to India, Arabia and Zanzibar.

24. They sell overcooked fish from delicacies.

26. Locals eat salted eggs. Why exactly with salt is not very clear, probably the Chinese brought this fashion. But there is a funny myth associated with eggs: women who are pregnant or about to become pregnant refuse them (allegedly eggs can cause infertility).

27. Corn

28. I went to the fantastic Mzizima fish market) I will make a separate post about it. This is perhaps the main attraction of Dar es Salaam. If foreigners are usually not advised to buy meat and other products in the markets of Tanzania, then you can and should take fish and seafood in the market! The main thing is to bargain well and withstand the smell.

29. Local

30. Very funny guards here with old guns. Too bad they don't let you take a picture.

32. Junkies and some ghouls hang out on the shore.

33. Right at the water's edge, they set up tents where they smoke drugs.

34. Normal guys, but aggressive. They hide from the police and do not like to be photographed.

35. Muslim communities in Tanzania are mostly concentrated on the coast. In Zanzibar, in general, almost 99% of the population are adherents of Islam. There are a lot of them in Dar es Salaam too.

36. Apparently, some kind of Hindu institution.

37. They also made a BRT bus system here. Launched recently, May 10th.

38. So far, only one line (21 kilometers) is operating with 29 stops on it. 140 Chinese Golden Dragon buses run here. The line operates from 5 am to 11 pm. The system is planned to be further developed. It is not yet clear how effective it is. The average speed for BRT buses is only 23 km/h.

39. Every regular bus has a bucket for checks.

40. Motorcyclists love to snatch bags and phones through open car windows.

41. The biggest danger is open hatches. They are everywhere.

42. You have to constantly look under your feet

43.

44. Some local freak.

45. The poster warns of thieves-grabbers (those who pull out bags and pull off clothes as they drive by). True, for some reason a car is drawn here, and not a scooter or a motorcycle.

46. ​​Cool ass!

47. Fashion

48.

49. Women walk around in colorful dresses and scarves.

50.

51.

52.

53.

54.

55. Station. Trains run from here to Dodoma, to Lake Victoria and to neighboring Zambia.

56. There are free trains that take by storm.

Connoisseurs taught me, they say, do not waste time in Dar es Salaam, and when you arrive in Tanzania, immediately go to Zanzibar or Arusha. But the more I was discouraged from the Gift, the more I wanted to get there. The reason for everything is natural stubbornness and unwillingness to blindly follow typical tourist routes. After all, Tanzania is not only a safari and Kilimanjaro. This is a large country with an extremely difficult fate and a salad of peoples and confessions. It is enough to look at the statistics about Tanzania to see how unusual everything is there: 35% of Christians belonging to almost all movements, 40% of Muslims in the form of descendants of Arabs and Indo-Pakistani, 25% of followers of traditional African beliefs. And many more probably remember such a person as Julius Nyerere - the most odious leader of Tanzania, a great friend of the USSR and a fighter against imperialism. Remember?

So, given the limited time and the need to soon move on to neighboring Zambia, I had to completely abandon visiting Zanzibar. Do you think I regret it? Not at all. So, Dar meets with humid heat at 40 degrees, hitting you in all the senses at the same time. You are only just going to passport control, but sweat is already rolling down your back. Welcome to the tropics!

On approaching Dar es Salaam, the city is perfectly visible on the left

At passport control, albeit a small, but still cute African chaos. People rush about in search of numerous forms: a health form, a visa application form, a migration card. Missing one or the other. After completing this quest for half an hour, you go to pay for a visa upon arrival. There are no rules and tariffs anywhere, and a smiling black-and-blue officer is free to name almost any amount. To the Swedes in front of us, he named a strange amount of $160 for three. What it is? If one visa costs 50, then 3 visas cost 150. Did you decide to take ten for a tip? Why not, whites have been colonizing Africa for centuries, why shouldn't an African immigration officer charge you a ten? With me, this trick does not work, moreover, I insist on a transit visa for $30, and not a regular one for $50. The officer first declares that there are no transit visas, then says that in order to obtain it, one should show tickets to the country of destination (I show a ticket to Zambia), and only after that accepts the documents. A transit visa is given for 14 days, and this is certainly enough!

Peace City

This is how the name Dara is translated from Arabic. It's an amazing thing - I know at least two cities in the world that bear the name "City of Peace", Jerusalem and Dar es Salaam, and there has never been true peace anywhere. What kind of evil irony is that? Luckily for Dar, the violence in it stopped a long time ago, although it is obvious that new outbreaks of unrest are a matter of time. The origins of the conflict lie in the colonial past of the country and the traditional enmity of African Christians with Muslims. It was the followers of Mohammedanism who were the most cruel slave traders, outdoing even the Europeans in this. And it was Muslims for the most part who were soldiers and caretakers during the British colonial past.

The city is young, less than 150 years old. Until 1866, Arab sultans ruled in these places, who were later forced out by the Germans, who in turn were put out by the British. Immediately with the departure of the Europeans in 1961, violence reigned throughout Tanzania: Muslims perpetrated a massacre of Gentiles in Zanzibar, and Christians responded to them in the same way on the mainland. This whole situation reached its apogee in 1967, when the number of Christians killed in Zanzibar reached several tens of thousands, and the survivors fled to the mainland in canoes and boats. Traces of violence are felt to this day in the demographics of this picturesque island - more than 99.5% of its population is Muslim. In the 1950s, at least a third were Christians. Parallel to this, similar ethnic cleansing took place against Muslims in central Tanzania, where there are still very few Muslims to this day.

Frankly, I personally did not know Mr. Nyerere, but I flew to the airport named after this gentleman

You can scold Julius Nyerere for his tender feelings for Brezhnev, and then for the teachings of Mao Jiudong, but the fact remains that he managed to extinguish the bloody conflict that was brewing in Tanzania. Albeit at the cost of a false course towards the ideas of socialism. As a result, Nyerere brought the country to a complete financial collapse, killed agriculture in an attempt to plant collective farms, took on the seizure of land from white farmers, and so on. As a result, he got involved in a war with neighboring Uganda, where a mad sergeant of the British army, a communist, a Muslim fundamentalist (and this is in predominantly Christian Uganda!) and ... cannibal Idi Amin Dada ruled. However, this is a completely different story. Nyerere himself ruled the country for almost 25 years, and left power only in 1985. Fortunately for Tanzania.

Dar es Salaam

In my opinion, this is one of the liveliest and most interesting cities in Africa. Of course, this is not Cairo or Johannesburg. But this is a 5-million metropolis on the coast of the Indian Ocean, where dozens of peoples live side by side, where there is a rich cultural and musical life, where everything is in full swing at any time of the day. There are also very pretty girls here, not inferior in beauty to the Ethiopians, whom I consider the greatest beauties of the black continent. This is a city of smiles and a rather sincere interest in you, and as a rule, without any cunning intent.

Dar also retained the most interesting buildings of the colonial era - for some reason, not a single popular guidebook writes about this, be it Lonely Planet or Bradt. There are a lot of beautiful temples of all religions: Buddhist pagodas, Muslim mosques, cathedrals and Hindu palaces.

I must say that the first impression of Dar was a small accident that occurred at the moment when my fellow traveler was photographing the street. She pulled the trigger a second after the Bajaj (three-wheeled taxi) collided with the car. This is the third accident with the Bajajs that is happening in front of me. The previous two were in India and Indonesia, respectively. And in the latter case, in Indonesia, I was a "happy" passenger in an overturned rattletrap. Wow, beauty!

There was a strong Bang-h-h, and already two black guys were yelling all over the street: one rubbing his bruised elbow, and the other in despair assessing the broken side mirror and scratches on the door of his almost new Toyota. A colorful picture.

Below is a selection of photos from Dara

Entertaining stories and tips on how to stay with your

Dar is a fairly safe city. By African standards, of course. But do not forget that there is crime, and your white face can be seen hundreds of meters away. For many, white equals rich. In other words, all those who trade in robberies and fraud see you from afar. I won't say that the risk of becoming a victim of trouble is greater here than, say, in Moscow. It’s just that in the latter case, you are part of a hurrying crowd, and it’s not clear from you whether you have money or not. Being white in a large African city is tantamount to walking around Moscow with a sign held high "I have full pockets of cash!" . Would you dare to walk along the Square of Three Stations with such signs? No? That's the same.

I read about the miracles that happen during the departure of ferries to the island of Zanzibar, located 80 km to the northeast, in guidebooks. And he knew that whole armies of "hustlers" (from English - to bother, annoy, annoy) hunt down naive tourists on the way to the port and in the center of Dara. As soon as you light up with a white face within a kilometer radius from the port, a black guy materializes next to you, who will run beside you and say "Hello! Do you need a ticket to Zanzibar? Or safari to Arusha?". Seeing your unwillingness to communicate, he does not lose heart at all, and immediately lays out to you a whole range of things that he thinks are fascinating: do you want to sell your shoes, buy a figurine in a gift shop. The last trump card is to offer you some of the best hotel in the world at the cheapest price. But you are shot sparrows, aren't you? Are you tormented by Egypt, are you not fooled by such naive wiring? That's fine!

Passenger port of Dar es Salaam. The booths on the right sell ferry tickets to Zanzibar and Pemba.Hundreds of crooks live here, with whom you will inevitably have to talk.

But many fall for the hook to scammers. And they manage to let themselves be carried away into a side lane, where in an incomprehensible sharashka they will sell you a ticket to Zanzibar for $100, at a normal price of $30-40. Other options are to overpay for a hotel, overpay for souvenirs, let yourself be promoted on an absolutely unnecessary "city tour". I don’t want to scare you, but I’ll also add this option - in a side alley you can be robbed corny. As happened with my good friend a year earlier - a knife to the side, and deft hands took everything out of your pockets, from a passport to a camera.

Chaos at the entrance to the passenger terminal of the port

Where to eat?

Not a trivial question at all. Let's say that your plans do not include poisoning, or even worse - catching hepatitis. Then in the choice of food places you need to be very careful. The fact is that not everything that is expensive is good, just as not everything that is cheap is bad. For example, you see a more or less civil restaurant where respectable white uncles and aunts dine. They look important, and they pay for a meal as much as a Tanzanian earns in a month. But before joining the dining tourists, I suggest a corner of the eye look at what is happening in the backyard of the restaurant -

This is where the food is being prepared.

And here they wash your dishes

I don’t want to say bad things about delicious food, or suspect aunts of not quite thorough washing dishes. But something does not inspire confidence in me. I guess you do too, don't you? One way or another, but we found a chic place for food - university canteens, which are in any university. The College of Economics, which is located exactly in the center of the city, was no exception, and we chose it for ourselves, as it combines cleanliness, cheapness and color -

college building

Students preparing for exams in the college yard

Student canteen. First, you go to the cashier, where you beat off the check. Then go to this line for distribution

A hefty serving of rice with chicken and salads will cost one (1) dollar. Freshly squeezed juice (not recommended for those who suffer from weak intestines) will cost another $ 0.5. Frankly, I'm usually careful with fruit, mindful of a couple of shipments that happened to me in India. But here everything was great. It is likely that the student canteen is still not a street eatery, and there is some control. And the second important aspect is that the food is prepared, goes on stream, and does not have time to spoil.

Accommodation

The choice clearly does not correspond to the level of a large metropolis. There are few hotels, and there is practically no average price level. Either very expensive network giants like Holiday Inn and Sheraton, where rooms start from $150, or very poor huts for $5-10. You know, I'm far from being a hypocrite, but two things confused me in this case:

1. Due to the exceptionally hot climate, it will be extremely difficult for you to live without an air conditioner, because even at night the temperature rarely drops below 28-30 degrees with almost absolute humidity. All hotels with air conditioning are several orders of magnitude more expensive than without it.

2. If you open the window, mosquitoes will fly in with a high probability of contracting malaria. Thus, if you are without air conditioning, then you will have to close the windows tightly and turn on the fan. What to say? It resembles torture, and there will be no normal sleep for sure.

Our room at the Econo Lodge

As a result, having bypassed about 6-7 mid-level hotels, and wondering where prices like 70-80 dollars come from for a more than modest room with an ancient rattling air conditioner and a non-working TV (and why do you need it?), we found the Econo Lodge hotel , where good rooms with air conditioning, a balcony, and even breakfast cost $30 for two. Moreover, it is also the very center of the city, the corner of Banda and Libya streets. They even have a website, although I don't know how often information is updated there.

Other reports about Africa:




In fact, a large administrative, economic and political center. Previously, on the site of this metropolis, there was a small fishing village of Mzizima, which, thanks to the convenient location of the sea harbor, has turned into a prosperous port city.

Holidays in Dar es Salaam are good for both families with children and extreme sports enthusiasts. Usually tourists come here in transit, then to go from Dar es Salaam to one of or to the islands,. But this beautiful city deserves a visit as an independent object. Scenic nature, beautiful architecture and great opportunities for recreation - that's what awaits you in Dar es Salaam, which the locals simply call Dar.

Weather in Dar es Salaam

The tropical climate, hot and humid almost all year round, makes Dar es Salaam pleasant. As on the entire coast of the Indian Ocean, it is hot in February and March (23-32°C) and cool in July and August (18-24°C). However, when going to Dar es Salaam, be sure to find out what the weather is like there. The fact is that it rains here twice a year: first from April to May (the so-called “long rains”) and then from October to November (“short rains”).

The beaches of Dar es Salaam

Within the city there are several beaches popular among the local population. However, tourists are not recommended to relax there: these beaches are not particularly comfortable, dirty and not always safe. It is better to opt for one of the beaches located north of the city, along the New Bagamoyo Highway.

By the way, in Dara there are hotels with their own beaches - they are much cleaner than the city ones and not so crowded. Even without being a guest of the hotel, for a fee, you can enjoy relaxing on the clean and comfortable sands of Rungwe, Bahari Beach, Silver Sands, White Sands, Jangwani Sea Breeze Lodge, Kunduchi Beach, etc. In addition to beach activities, lovers of a relaxing holiday will like walks along the oceanfront, among baobabs and coconut trees.

What to see in Dar es Salaam?

The colonial past has left its traces in the history of Dara: there are Islamic mosques, Buddhist pagodas and Catholic cathedrals, Chinatowns and austere English houses. The city is divided into several parts. The narrow streets of the old part of the city, built up with two-story houses in the Swahili style, are fanned with a purely African flavor. In the northern part of Dar es Salaam you will see austere government buildings and classical boulevards, and in the harbor area there is a business center of the city with banks and offices.

The main attractions of Dar es Salaam are concentrated in the center:

  • Botanical Garden;
  • spice market Kiriakoo;
  • clock tower;
  • the Askari monument, dedicated to those who died in the First World War;
  • the palace of Sultan Majid, whose construction dates back to the 19th century;
  • St. Alban's Anglican Church;
  • Catholic Cathedral (St. Joseph's Cathedral);
  • mosques on Mosca Street;
  • Uruhu torch stele in Mnazi Mnoja Park.

Hotels and restaurants in Dar es Salaam

Experienced travelers note that there are two categories of hotels in the city - either expensive luxury establishments (Dar-es-Salam Serena Hotel, New Africa Hotel, Double Tree by Hilton Dar-es-Salam), where the price per room is about 150 USD ., or small budget hotels where you can stay by paying 5-10 dollars for a place to sleep.

You can have a delicious meal in Dar es Salaam in numerous restaurants serving dishes of European, Italian and. Here, a lot of attention is paid to seafood - they can be tasted in Osaka, Oriental, Mediterraneo, Karambezi Café. Restaurants at hotels and those located in the Indian Street area are popular with tourists. The only place where you can try Thai cuisine does not leave you indifferent is the Sawasdee restaurant.

Connoisseurs taught me, they say, do not waste time in Dar es Salaam, and when you arrive in Tanzania, immediately go to Zanzibar or Arusha. But the more I was discouraged from the Gift, the more I wanted to get there. The reason for everything is natural stubbornness and unwillingness to blindly follow typical tourist routes. After all, Tanzania is not only a safari and Kilimanjaro. This is a large country with an extremely difficult fate and a salad of peoples and confessions. It is enough to look at the statistics about Tanzania to see how unusual everything is there: 35% of Christians belonging to almost all movements, 40% of Muslims in the form of descendants of Arabs and Indo-Pakistani, 25% of followers of traditional African beliefs. And many more probably remember such a person as Julius Nyerere - the most odious leader of Tanzania, a great friend of the USSR and a fighter against imperialism. Remember?

So, given the limited time and the need to soon move on to neighboring Zambia, I had to completely abandon visiting Zanzibar. Do you think I regret it? Not at all. So, Dar meets with humid heat at 40 degrees, hitting you in all the senses at the same time. You are only just going to passport control, but sweat is already rolling down your back. Welcome to the tropics!

On approaching Dar es Salaam, the city is perfectly visible on the left

At passport control, albeit a small, but still cute African chaos. People rush about in search of numerous forms: a health form, a visa application form, a migration card. Missing one or the other. After completing this quest for half an hour, you go to pay for a visa upon arrival. There are no rules and tariffs anywhere, and a smiling black-and-blue officer is free to name almost any amount. To the Swedes in front of us, he named a strange amount of $160 for three. What it is? If one visa costs 50, then 3 visas cost 150. Did you decide to take ten for a tip? Why not, whites have been colonizing Africa for centuries, why shouldn't an African immigration officer charge you a ten? With me, this trick does not work, moreover, I insist on a transit visa for $30, and not a regular one for $50. The officer first declares that there are no transit visas, then says that in order to obtain it, one should show tickets to the country of destination (I show a ticket to Zambia), and only after that accepts the documents. A transit visa is given for 14 days, and this is certainly enough!

Peace City

This is how the name Dara is translated from Arabic. It's an amazing thing - I know at least two cities in the world that bear the name "City of Peace", Jerusalem and Dar es Salaam, and there has never been true peace anywhere. What kind of evil irony is that? Luckily for Dar, the violence in it stopped a long time ago, although it is obvious that new outbreaks of unrest are a matter of time. The origins of the conflict lie in the colonial past of the country and the traditional enmity of African Christians with Muslims. It was the followers of Mohammedanism who were the most cruel slave traders, outdoing even the Europeans in this. And it was Muslims for the most part who were soldiers and caretakers during the British colonial past.

The city is young, less than 150 years old. Until 1866, Arab sultans ruled in these places, who were later forced out by the Germans, who in turn were put out by the British. Immediately with the departure of the Europeans in 1961, violence reigned throughout Tanzania: Muslims perpetrated a massacre of Gentiles in Zanzibar, and Christians responded to them in the same way on the mainland. This whole situation reached its apogee in 1967, when the number of Christians killed in Zanzibar reached several tens of thousands, and the survivors fled to the mainland in canoes and boats. Traces of violence are felt to this day in the demographics of this picturesque island - more than 99.5% of its population is Muslim. In the 1950s, at least a third were Christians. Parallel to this, similar ethnic cleansing took place against Muslims in central Tanzania, where there are still very few Muslims to this day.

Frankly, I personally did not know Mr. Nyerere, but I flew to the airport named after this gentleman

You can scold Julius Nyerere for his tender feelings for Brezhnev, and then for the teachings of Mao Jiudong, but the fact remains that he managed to extinguish the bloody conflict that was brewing in Tanzania. Albeit at the cost of a false course towards the ideas of socialism. As a result, Nyerere brought the country to a complete financial collapse, killed agriculture in an attempt to plant collective farms, took on the seizure of land from white farmers, and so on. As a result, he got involved in a war with neighboring Uganda, where a mad sergeant of the British army, a communist, a Muslim fundamentalist (and this is in predominantly Christian Uganda!) and ... cannibal Idi Amin Dada ruled. However, this is a completely different story. Nyerere himself ruled the country for almost 25 years, and left power only in 1985. Fortunately for Tanzania.

Dar es Salaam

In my opinion, this is one of the liveliest and most interesting cities in Africa. Of course, this is not Cairo or Johannesburg. But this is a 5-million metropolis on the coast of the Indian Ocean, where dozens of peoples live side by side, where there is a rich cultural and musical life, where everything is in full swing at any time of the day. There are also very pretty girls here, not inferior in beauty to the Ethiopians, whom I consider the greatest beauties of the black continent. This is a city of smiles and a rather sincere interest in you, and as a rule, without any cunning intent.

Dar also retained the most interesting buildings of the colonial era - for some reason, not a single popular guidebook writes about this, be it Lonely Planet or Bradt. There are a lot of beautiful temples of all religions: Buddhist pagodas, Muslim mosques, cathedrals and Hindu palaces.

I must say that the first impression of Dar was a small accident that occurred at the moment when my fellow traveler was photographing the street. She pulled the trigger a second after the Bajaj (three-wheeled taxi) collided with the car. This is the third accident with the Bajajs that is happening in front of me. The previous two were in India and Indonesia, respectively. And in the latter case, in Indonesia, I was a "happy" passenger in an overturned rattletrap. Wow, beauty!

There was a strong Bang-h-h, and already two black guys were yelling all over the street: one rubbing his bruised elbow, and the other in despair assessing the broken side mirror and scratches on the door of his almost new Toyota. A colorful picture.

Below is a selection of photos from Dara

Entertaining stories and tips on how to stay with your

Dar is a fairly safe city. By African standards, of course. But do not forget that there is crime, and your white face can be seen hundreds of meters away. For many, white equals rich. In other words, all those who trade in robberies and fraud see you from afar. I won't say that the risk of becoming a victim of trouble is greater here than, say, in Moscow. It’s just that in the latter case, you are part of a hurrying crowd, and it’s not clear from you whether you have money or not. Being white in a large African city is tantamount to walking around Moscow with a sign held high "I have full pockets of cash!" . Would you dare to walk along the Square of Three Stations with such signs? No? That's the same.

I read about the miracles that happen during the departure of ferries to the island of Zanzibar, located 80 km to the northeast, in guidebooks. And he knew that whole armies of "hustlers" (from English - to bother, annoy, annoy) hunt down naive tourists on the way to the port and in the center of Dara. As soon as you light up with a white face within a kilometer radius from the port, a black guy materializes next to you, who will run beside you and say "Hello! Do you need a ticket to Zanzibar? Or safari to Arusha?". Seeing your unwillingness to communicate, he does not lose heart at all, and immediately lays out to you a whole range of things that he thinks are fascinating: do you want to sell your shoes, buy a figurine in a gift shop. The last trump card is to offer you some of the best hotel in the world at the cheapest price. But you are shot sparrows, aren't you? Are you tormented by Egypt, are you not fooled by such naive wiring? That's fine!

Passenger port of Dar es Salaam. The booths on the right sell ferry tickets to Zanzibar and Pemba.Hundreds of crooks live here, with whom you will inevitably have to talk.

But many fall for the hook to scammers. And they manage to let themselves be carried away into a side lane, where in an incomprehensible sharashka they will sell you a ticket to Zanzibar for $100, at a normal price of $30-40. Other options are to overpay for a hotel, overpay for souvenirs, let yourself be promoted on an absolutely unnecessary "city tour". I don’t want to scare you, but I’ll also add this option - in a side alley you can be robbed corny. As happened with my good friend a year earlier - a knife to the side, and deft hands took everything out of your pockets, from a passport to a camera.

Chaos at the entrance to the passenger terminal of the port

Where to eat?

Not a trivial question at all. Let's say that your plans do not include poisoning, or even worse - catching hepatitis. Then in the choice of food places you need to be very careful. The fact is that not everything that is expensive is good, just as not everything that is cheap is bad. For example, you see a more or less civil restaurant where respectable white uncles and aunts dine. They look important, and they pay for a meal as much as a Tanzanian earns in a month. But before joining the dining tourists, I suggest a corner of the eye look at what is happening in the backyard of the restaurant -

This is where the food is being prepared.

And here they wash your dishes

I don’t want to say bad things about delicious food, or suspect aunts of not quite thorough washing dishes. But something does not inspire confidence in me. I guess you do too, don't you? One way or another, but we found a chic place for food - university canteens, which are in any university. The College of Economics, which is located exactly in the center of the city, was no exception, and we chose it for ourselves, as it combines cleanliness, cheapness and color -

college building

Students preparing for exams in the college yard

Student canteen. First, you go to the cashier, where you beat off the check. Then go to this line for distribution

A hefty serving of rice with chicken and salads will cost one (1) dollar. Freshly squeezed juice (not recommended for those who suffer from weak intestines) will cost another $ 0.5. Frankly, I'm usually careful with fruit, mindful of a couple of shipments that happened to me in India. But here everything was great. It is likely that the student canteen is still not a street eatery, and there is some control. And the second important aspect is that the food is prepared, goes on stream, and does not have time to spoil.

Accommodation

The choice clearly does not correspond to the level of a large metropolis. There are few hotels, and there is practically no average price level. Either very expensive network giants like Holiday Inn and Sheraton, where rooms start from $150, or very poor huts for $5-10. You know, I'm far from being a hypocrite, but two things confused me in this case:

1. Due to the exceptionally hot climate, it will be extremely difficult for you to live without an air conditioner, because even at night the temperature rarely drops below 28-30 degrees with almost absolute humidity. All hotels with air conditioning are several orders of magnitude more expensive than without it.

2. If you open the window, mosquitoes will fly in with a high probability of contracting malaria. Thus, if you are without air conditioning, then you will have to close the windows tightly and turn on the fan. What to say? It resembles torture, and there will be no normal sleep for sure.

Our room at the Econo Lodge

As a result, having bypassed about 6-7 mid-level hotels, and wondering where prices like 70-80 dollars come from for a more than modest room with an ancient rattling air conditioner and a non-working TV (and why do you need it?), we found the Econo Lodge hotel , where good rooms with air conditioning, a balcony, and even breakfast cost $30 for two. Moreover, it is also the very center of the city, the corner of Banda and Libya streets. They even have a website, although I don't know how often information is updated there.

Other reports about Africa:

Travel preparation | Our itinerary in Tanzania| Dar es Salaam| Safari | Kilimanjaro | Zanzibar |

Having arrived at the Moscow airport in advance, we decided to sit in the Shokoladnitsa and recharge our phones. It was only a little later that we realized how good this idea was, since there were no working outlets even at the Istanbul airport. Try not to run out of batteries on the plane, read a paper book or magazine until you get to your destination. Or buy an extra battery for your mobile. Since Africa is an unpredictable country, anything can happen, and electronic devices can do you an invaluable service. As, for example, happened to us.

Flight from Moscow to Istanbul went perfectly: there were few Russians, no one was rowdy. Everything was quiet and peaceful, which is surprising, since it was New Year's Eve. We spent 4 hours in Istanbul. The airport is not very big, we walked around it in half an hour, then toiled about what to do. Next, we flew to Dar es Salaam. According to the plan, we were supposed to spend the night in a hotel in this city, and then fly to Kilimanjaro.

Overnight in Dar es Salaam

We booked in advance the Transit Motel Airport in Dar es Salaam, close to the airport. A taxi to the hotel cost only $5, but we decided to save this "crazy" amount and find a hotel on our own. As you might guess, this was a big mistake.

On the way to the hotel, we met an unusual market: they sold various goods a la second-hand. At the breakups, you could buy worn sneakers or a jacket. Nearby, right under the open sky, local women were scribbling something on antediluvian manual typewriters, and this “something” was being sold on neighboring stalls. While we were walking along, the Africans pointed their fingers at us and spoke loudly about something in the local language. The feeling, let me tell you, is not pleasant.

They searched for the road for a long time and painfully, as the local population understands English very poorly. With grief in half, one of the passers-by pointed at our hotel. In order to get to it, it was necessary to overcome one more obstacle - a wide road with a continuous stream of cars. Three lanes in one direction, and this is in the absence of any hints of a pedestrian crossing or traffic lights. In confusion, we decided to see how the locals cross this route, and joined one group of desperate people. The locals went ahead. Over the cars. Fuh, it feels like running across the Moscow Ring Road, only add huge bags to this.

In the evening, this place looked especially green. It is better not to go outside at night. When this flea market closes, the locals go wild. Everywhere they drink, ride motorcycles. Often there are fights. It's especially hot at local nightclubs. Some say that there are decent places in Dar es Salaam, for example, at the Holliday Inn hotel, local golden youth come to hang out there, but we did not check it on our own experience.

In general, a lot here depends on first impressions, and after a walk to the hotel, these first impressions did not fit in any way with a place where it makes sense to spend time in nightlife. But of course, you can write your own story of Dar es Salaam at night.

In general, taxis, taxis and more taxis.

Speaking of taxis. Taxis in Tanzania are very decent. Official taxis are all brand new white foreign cars, air-conditioned inside. The number of passengers allowed for transportation is indicated on the doors of the car. In general, traveling by taxi there is much safer than walking. In the long run, it might work out cheaper.

Another reason why you should take a taxi from the airport: if you have booked a hotel, it is not at all a fact that they are waiting for you there. That is, you can come, but there are no free rooms in the hotel. Priority in hotels is given to "real people" and not to soulless electronic reservations. In this case, the taxi driver will take you to another hotel where there will be free places. Finding a new hotel on your own will be difficult, and dangerous. I think this rule does not apply to hotels of well-known world chains, but "home" African hotels are unpredictable.

Our overnight stay experience at the Dar es Salaam hotel

The main criterion for choosing a hotel in Dar es Salaam for us was the proximity to the airport, because we had only 6 hours to stay in the city, and the low cost.

We were not very lucky with the hotel. In the hotel in which we lived due to the high humidity in the bathroom, the shower and taps are covered with rust, you can see the fungus on the walls and ceiling, and the towels were of dubious cleanliness.

Rainwater is used as water. On the roofs of many buildings there are tanks where water is collected, it is also supplied to the taps. Do I need to explain that you can’t drink from the tap? Service in hotels is very specific, that is, the staff tries, but it turns out “not very”, at least in cheap ones. This is Africa, so you can not rely on European standards. All hotels have mosquito nets, which must be used, because mosquitoes fly everywhere. Air conditioners and massive fans located directly above the beds also help against midges.

The most interesting nuance of this hotel where we stayed is the TVs, sealed in bars and under locks. Apparently cases of TV theft are quite frequent, which indirectly perfectly describes the local socio-economic situation and the potential fate of those who save 5 bucks on a taxi. We didn’t even turn it on, you never know, it will suddenly explode. We observed this phenomenon (that is, cells) in all the hotels in Tanzania where we stayed.

Separately, I would like to tell about sockets in Tanzania. They are very specific there, 220 volts, but with three holes. Our usual plug does not fit them, and there are no special adapters for them. For 5 bucks, the locals will teach you how to use the outlet: in the third, “extra” hole, you need to insert some kind of stick, such as an ear stick, and use the remaining two for their intended purpose, in the sense of inserting the plug of the device. Well, or buy a universal adapter in Russia.

In this hotel in Dar es Salaam we spent a total of 4 hours. We were able to sleep and have breakfast. For breakfast it was kind of like scrambled eggs. But the best thing in Tanzania is not to eat animal products at all in places that are in doubt, especially fried ones. There is some risk of poisoning and spend one day to cleanse the body. You can eat canned foods: chips, yogurt, cereal, bottled water.

After breakfast, we again moved to the airport, pre-ordering taxi for 5 bucks. Still, sometimes people learn from their own mistakes.

There was a big disappointment at the airport, as the airline we were supposed to fly with went bankrupt and was closed. All our tickets have turned into useless candy wrappers. We are in Africa. We don't have tickets. On the nose of the New Year. Let's get a party started!

We wanted an exotic adventure, and I must say that we got it. True, before the trip there was some illusion that everything would be with dinner parties, banquets and African performances, where everyone entertains you with overseas dishes, bright colors, skins and .. well, a lot more .. And then it turns out that we were invited to dinner , where we ourselves can become the main menu item (but more on that later). It's too late to retreat, let's move on...

After studying the airport hall, it became obvious that domestic flights are very popular among Africans themselves. Apparently because of their relatively low price. Then we found out on the forums that flying there is much safer than moving on land or water. It is especially dangerous to get on the water on Zanzibar, where does the ferry go? Often they go to the bottom, along with passengers (for example, in 2011, more than 1,500 people died and went missing during the crash of the ferry, and about 300 people in 2012).

You should not travel across Tanzania by water, and by land too, if the distances are significant.

In general, we got out of the situation: we bought other tickets with transfers, and we even managed to exchange some tickets for another airline. There were still six hours before the flight to the next destination. In the end, we decided again