Trek "Around Annapurna" in Nepal: description of the route and photos. Nepal

I'll try to keep the post practical so that it can be useful to potential players who want to play this track.
Nepalese prices are used in places in the post. For a simple account, one hundred rupees = 1 dollar.

Preparation.

We started preparing months in advance. I lost weight and walked around the city for miles with a heavy backpack. On my best day, I walked 20 km with a 20 kg backpack.
Likewise, my girlfriend and I can run a couple of three kilometers without stopping.
If you can't walk 20 km with a 15-20 kg backpack, you will most likely not master the track.

Equipment

Glasses should be with mountain protection. Personally, glasses are the most expensive piece of equipment for us. We paid $112 each. But we bought in a company store already in Kathmandu. In the North Face (https://goo.gl/maps/HhAKDQv5hs22)
The cheapest were for $70.
But you can take a chance and take on the street for 20-50.

Shoes. We went in good winter boots and then on the pass itself we had to put on three socks, because our feet really started to freeze. Shoes should be broken in at home and brought with you. You still have a couple of hundred kilometers to go in it.
Light shoes. In general, I walked the track (and a couple of days in Thailand in 35 degree heat until I bought sandals) in my winter boots and trekking socks. It did not cause any particular inconvenience.
I had sneakers in my backpack, but I was too lazy to mess around with them, and besides, they were less comfortable than boots. But in general it is recommended to have light shoes, at least to walk around the hotel in them (they are called loggias here)
Socks. Well, let's deal with socks right away. Trekking socks can be bought on site. There are thinner socks (most of them), but sometimes there are thicker trekking socks. I passed in thick ones, and the pass was crossed in some ordinary, some thick trekking and some knitted shoes. In short, it is better to take warmer socks and several pairs.

thermal underwear. Never wore it before the track. But on the track it is necessary. At first I bought a cheap one, it did not completely cover my back. But then I bought a better one for 3000 (Nepalese rupees). And I don't regret it.

fleece. I also met this word on the track. This is the second layer, its purpose is to keep warm. You need pants and a jacket.

Windstopper. Third layer. Although instead of windstopper jackets we had winter jackets from Russia. Here are the pants we bought. Why did I take insulated ones (but I didn’t take fleece ones)

Scarf. We brought scarves. We bought local analogues of "buffs". I didn't even use mine.

Cap. It is hot during the day at the bottom of the route. We even bought special panamas, which are “cap in all directions”. Comfortable.

Well, on the body we also had T-shirts and shirts.

Everything about clothes. Now for the rest

Sticks. Sticks are good. Someone says that they are not needed, someone says that they interfere. We were very ok with sticks. The main thing is to use them correctly.

Gloves. There are two layers here. Just rag - this is the bottom layer. And the analogue of the windstopper is the upper one. (to prevent snow from sticking)
On the pass, my hands were freezing. I don't know how to deal with it. It is possible to use a double rag layer. I just warmed my hands (gloved) in my pockets. One hand holds sticks, the other in his pocket, then vice versa.

Camping towel. This is such a special fabric, takes up little space, wipes well and dries quickly.

Cats. We bought and used. But in reality, they were at least somehow needed in one place already on the descent, but in general I slipped and fell only once. And this time I was just in cats. They were covered with snow and icy. Next time we go we won't take it. But it really depends on the weather.

Headlamps. Must have. There were solar panels in the upper villages and there was no light at night. Plus, the exit to the pass itself takes place at night in the dark.

Sunscreen. Even if you have never used it, this is the case when it is needed. Around twenty-thirty degree frost, but the ultraviolet does not care about the temperature. He will burn you. My forehead and the tip of my nose burned a little, and a few days after the track, the skin on my right cheek peeled off.
This is despite the fact that I used the cream (although after a height of 3500 only, it is better to use it after 2500). And I constantly hid my skin from the sun. So, I repeat, even if you have never used it, the track is the place where it is better to use it.
Well, of course, do not bask by exposing your face to the sun.

knee pads. I haven't used it (now after two weeks I feel weak and uncomfortable in my knees). My girlfriend used and says that without them she would not have passed. I’ll also add an ankle bandage here, but this is not at all necessary. Just a girl used, so I'm writing.

Sleeping bag. I will now say something unexpected. We didn't use sleeping bags. We carried them with us, but never used them.
No, of course it's cold there. It's very cold, but to fight the cold it's enough to ask for a couple of extra blankets where you're staying.
Some trackers, who also make do with local blankets, recommend taking the lightest sleeping bag, simply for hygienic reasons.

Backpack. It's better to take a big one. For everything to fit into it. The backpack must be with a belt. It is not a problem to buy a backpack on the spot.
I had 45. But it has a rather interesting design, which essentially made it possible to increase the usable volume by another 20 liters. (So 65 in total)
Plus, we fastened sleeping bags outside.

Medications. We only used patches to prevent calluses (really helps) and topical paracetamol for colds and headaches while crossing the pass. Plus hygienic lipstick to protect the lips. But a much larger first aid kit is usually recommended. I think it would be better to google this question elsewhere.

Map. I had a paper one (I bought it in Kathmandu, they asked for 500, I said that I would give only 300. Of course they agreed) and a computer one.
Computer here https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=net.osmand (You need to download a world map and a separate map of Nepal inside the application)
I also didn’t use it (because I didn’t think it would be needed, and I didn’t have the opportunity to buy it in Nepal), but I think it won’t hurt
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=net.osmand.srtmPlugin.paid

Tablets for water disinfection. They are cheap, you can bargain. Sold in many places. On the track, somewhere in the guest house, you give a bottle and ask for free drinking water and throw a pill away from sin. You can drink after half an hour. Otherwise, water is too expensive, plus if you take it in bottles, then there will be garbage generation.

Time.

I'll tell you straight. I don't understand at all why people rush to the track during the peak months. Yes, yes, I read this explanation that they say "the weather is better."
But… all serious disasters so far have happened in the “seasonal” months! Even the earthquake happened during the peak month of spring.

The main problem of peak seasonal months is that someone does not have enough space for an overnight stay. Do you need it? I'm not talking about the impossibility of getting extra blankets.
In short, of course it is better to go in spring / autumn. but not at the peak. We got on the trail on February 22. We crossed the pass on March 5th. And it was the right decision on our part.

Porter

He's also a porter. Definitely do not take.
An exception can only be a situation in which you initially do not believe in yourself and are going to cross the pass on a horse (yes, there is such an opportunity). In this case, yes, let the porter carry the whole load, and when it gets hard, the horse already carries you. But if you are going to cross the pass on your own feet, then in no case take a porter at the beginning of the route.

The pass itself is so much harder than the rest of the route that you can immediately say that if you are not able to carry your backpack to the base camp, then you will not have enough strength for the pass.

If you still need a porter, then you will take it at the pass itself. (Unless, of course, you go during the peak season, and everyone is not snatched up)

Guide

Not needed. It is worth taking only if you want to chat on the road and have extra money. In order to navigate the route, the above maps and these marks are enough

There is also a blue and white label. I will mention her again.

We are trading.

I don't know where to put this paragraph, so I'll put it somewhere. In Nepal, the norm is to bargain for everything.
On the track itself, always ask for free accommodation. But for this you will have to eat in your hotel. In general, the menu is the same everywhere (and unexpectedly extensive, so you should only carry a few light packs of cookies with you for a snack), so it doesn’t matter where you eat.
When settling in large cities, bargain.
When buying equipment, try to take more things in one place and discount from 10% to 30%. If you are embarrassed to bargain or do not know English, then at least just say "discount". The seller himself will throw something off.
There will be shops along the track. There you can bargain for food and things. I constantly bargained for water, because it grew in price too quickly as it climbed. Sometimes they gave in, sometimes they were stubborn.
It was very hard to bargain for food in hotels. But I bargained for a discount all on the same water.
You can also bargain a little for transport. (From Pokhara to Besisahar we traveled for 350, they didn’t concede to us anymore. We started from 400).

Arrival to Kathmandu.

So, you have arrived. You need to fill out a few papers, fill in something in some terminal, and pay for a visa.
The visa is paid in dollars, euros or any other internationally recognized currency. You can't get a visa for rubles or local rupees.

There is a visa for 15 days (it is not suitable for the track)
There is a visa for 30. If you are limited in time and money, then it is for you.
There are 90 days. We took her, but in the end we spent a little less than 30 days in the country, we really wanted to go to Tai, to Chiang Mai.

The visa is placed at the airport.

From the airport take a taxi for 400-600 to the Thamel area (tourist area)
And there you already choose where to settle. I don't think it matters where. Kathmandu is a terrible place (you yourself will understand this when you leave the airport), everything is bad there.

Some manage to leave the same day for Pokhara. If we are in Nepal again, we will try to do the same. However, if you are in Nepal for the first time, then still stay in Kathmandu. In fact, it is interesting to walk along the streets, if you do not pay attention to the noise, dirt and other authenticity.

Before the track, in addition to buying equipment, you also need to get permission and a TIMS card. Can be done in Kathmandu. Can be done in Pokhara. Worth 2000 or so. We need photos and a passport (with us, a lot of tourists received a photocopy of their passport)
We did in Pokhara. Made in the same building here. https://goo.gl/maps/VG58HUhd1GL2

Pokhara

Pokhara is optional before the trek. (Although at the end of the track you will arrive in this city). If you manage to buy equipment and get permits in Kathmandu, then you can go to the track from there.
But we went from Kathmandu to Pokhara.
Pokhara, of course, is not so authentic. But much more enjoyable. For tourists, they gave probably the best place in the city. Coast of the local lake. That area is called Lake side
The price of housing is from a thousand to two. We paid a thousand.

A good store that I am ready to recommend directly is located opposite Godfather’s Pizzeria https://goo.gl/maps/CRGibnKvuwT2 (I also recommend it)

In Pokhara we did two test trips to see if we were capable of such trekking at all. First time just climbed a hill on our side of the lake

Then we went to the hill on the other side of the lake. To the local attraction: "Stupa of Peace".
Bypassed the lake on the left, climbed.

(Somewhere behind the haze in the distance, snow peaks are hiding)

Then on the way back we climbed to the local dam

In general, for me this trip to the stupa of the world was useful. He helped to test before the actual track.

Track

When all matters are settled, we go to Besisakhar. We arrive in the afternoon. We mark at the first checkpoint (it is in the same place where the bus arrives, if you ask), and go. I immediately went the wrong way and the card on the phone helped me out at the very beginning.

Some spend the night in Besisahara. Some even go further ahead, shortening the road for a few days. But the right track starts with Besisahara.

And on the first day of the journey you will meet suspension bridges.

On the first day, you can walk to Bulbule place or a little further Nadi Bazaar.
If you didn’t see snowy peaks in Pokhara, then the next morning you will most likely finally see them.

Let's go let's go. We spent the night like this. Nadi, Chamche, Timang (There is a long and steep climb before Timang. It's just that the height was incorrectly indicated on our paper map and we thought that the road would be easier. But we reached it in the light.). In fact, there is no need to break into Timang, and those who have a map with normal heights stop in the previous Danague.
Because the next halt is still the village of Chame (By no means Bratang), no matter where you come from.
Somewhere after Chame we met snow on the road at last.
And also on the way from Chame there is such a mountain.

The impression is fantastic. Like some kind of giant crater. The mountain has a name Svargadvari, in translation it sounds like "Gate to Paradise"

Then the upper Pisang (But you can also lower, these are two villages, one on a slope, the other in a lowland)

We went forward, climbed a little (We tried not to stay in the “first” hotels, because they are spoiled by tourists and prices can be inflated there, this was the case in Chamcha for example)

And the next day from Pisang a dash to Manang. There is an upper road (through the villages of Gayaru and Naval), it is difficult, but we walked along it. And there is a lower road, it is easy.
But then I thought that if we pass along the upper one, then we will master the pass.

Manang

It's already 3500.
Here you should stop for a few days. 2-3. We spent 4.

Will explain. The main risk of the pass is not the weather, not your endurance or wandering yaks, but mountain sickness. To prevent mountain sickness, you need to carefully monitor your condition, sleep well, drink plenty of water (2-3 liters per person), climb gradually and make acclimatization sorties.

We climbed up the hill to the left of Gangapurna Lake (Actually, it has a different name, but everyone calls it that). This lake is right next to the village, opening the map, you will understand everything.

(the view is already from the hill, but we climbed even higher)

The other day we went to Ice lake. And here we can talk about it in more detail.

ice lake

4800m. It's all been said already. You will have to climb from altitude 3500 to altitude 4800.

The ascent starts through the village of Braga. (she is on the track a couple of kilometers before Manang). The trail is perfectly visible in the application, to which I gave a link. I just want to note that the fork to the lake is marked with a blue and white mark (and not red and white).

In a closer view (left) Braga. In the background (right) is Manang. In the center is the hill I wrote about above. As you can see, they have already risen above him.

Occasionally there will be pointers.

Up, up, up. Passed 60 percent of the height. Lake Gangapurna is in the center

And with difficulty, we finally get to the lake. First you will meet this puddle. Somehow smelly.
We'll have to go a little further.

We rest before the descent. And then the clouds move in.

We still have time to look at Manang from above

And that's it. We spent the entire descent in the clouds.

In snow clouds.

Long

Long

long descent

In fact, for me, this ascent, in terms of impressions, competes with the pass itself. Plus, it was the final endurance test before the pass itself. Highly recommend.

Watching the weather

While we are in Manang, where there is electricity and Internet, we need to look at the weather at the pass for the next few days. You need a more or less sunny day with a minimum of precipitation.
Two more nights between Manang and the pass. Yak Kharka and Thorong Pedi, aka base camp. So book these overnight stays to cross the pass on a good day.

We met a couple who were unable to cross the pass because of the snow, although they were physically stronger and more resilient than us. In addition, when we arrived at the base camp, there were a lot of people who were not there when we walked along the trail. This pile I can only explain by the fact that people were waiting for a good day. But it is much more pleasant to wait for a good day in Manang at 3500 than in the base camp at 4500.

Moving on

From Manang there is already a purely hiking and horse trail. (Before that, it is possible to get there by bike or jeep)

We go to Yak Kharka.
Some go to Ledar (a little further up the road and up), some even to Thorong Pedi.
You don't have to do that. By doing this, you do not increase the likelihood of a transition, but reduce it, as you disrupt the dynamics of climb.

There are already problems with electricity and the Internet in Yak Kharka.
Try to charge your phone and, just in case, take care of the charge so that you have a map and a camera on the pass itself. We charged for free from the batteries of the guest house in which we lived, but we went in late February - early March, during the season I think not that there will be no free charging, the battery charge itself is simply not enough.

There is a small hill near Yak Kharka. We did not climb, but for acclimatization it is better to go.

Thorong Pedy

It's the base camp. Last night before the pass. Some spend the night even higher, but in the first place it is harmful to sleep higher. Second, it's colder.

In the base camp, we paid for housing (because there were a lot of people, but there was no choice for housing)

When you arrive at the camp, do not rush to relax. Drop your backpacks and walk up to the upper camp. First, you will scout the road (the next day you will have to walk it in the dark) and better acclimatize before the hardest day of the track.

Up there. The rock in the center of the frame you will bypass on the left. There, the left and right rocks will converge higher. And then they break up again. You need to keep to the right cliff. (On the map in the phone, all trails will be visible)

It was the coldest night. Lying under the covers, we waited at least half an hour for our feet to warm up (the body itself usually warms up in a couple of minutes). We had five blankets for two of us. Plus thermal underwear, plus fleece, who had what. But we never got our sleeping bags. There was no need to sleep in jackets either. But they wore hats.

Before the pass it is better to eat as lightly as possible. But drink, as always, should be plentiful.

Pass.

Rise at 4-5 am. If it's easy for you, then you can, probably even 5:30
It is better not to go first, so as not to trample the road, although at least you will definitely get to the upper camp. And while you are drinking tea, someone will definitely go first.

The main landmarks on the way are those posts over there (near the path, on the right side of the frame)

On the way to the pass, you will come across two more seasonal houses. When I passed, they were empty, but they also served as landmarks.

The transition was difficult. They constantly stopped to catch their breath. We walked at a speed of 1-1.5 km per hour. But there was no need for a porter. (What's the use of a porter if it's already grown together with a backpack, and what's without it, that you can barely walk with it alone)
Sometimes tourists on horseback rode past us.
In general, we walked the whole track very slowly, everyone overtook us. And if we overtook someone, we usually overtook those to whom the porter carried things ...

There were different thoughts, I wanted to quit everything and turn around, I wanted to quit and lie down in the snow to rest. But we survived it on two more test transitions (From the upper Pisang to Manang on the upper trail. And when climbing the ice lake) so we knew that we just had to stubbornly step forward step by step. An hour, two, three or, as in our case, the transition took thirteen hours (from the place of overnight stay to the next village)

And finally, the pass itself. With frozen hands we take a few pictures and descend from the other side. During the day, rise from 4500 to 5416 and descend to 3800.

We reached the town of Mukhtinakh. We slept and decided to finish the track. Because the challenge has been completed, and I really wanted to enter civilization. Well, on the pass we caught a very bad cold.

In general, although the track was difficult for us, we are glad that we went to it. It was not so much a physical ordeal as a psychological one. During the track, I was once again convinced that a certain amount of perseverance is a very useful trait. Perseverance helps to finish the games when you don’t want to look at them anymore, and to cross the pass when there is no strength left.

I must have missed something. (For example, I didn’t write a word about the fact that at a height there is much less air and therefore it’s hard to breathe and sometimes you feel that you are suffocating). So if you have any questions please ask.

Rating: 10.0/ 10 (7 votes cast)

I know you've been waiting for this for a long time. The schedule of kayak tours to India for the spring of 2019 is ready. In the next season, I offer only two tours, as I will be busy in Finland until the beginning of April. So, in the program Kayak-school at the origins of the Ganges and a new tour - the Himalayan blitz - all the most interesting in eight days. Details below

Kayak school at the head of the Ganges

Location: India, Uttarakhand Pradesh

Duration: 13 days (Delhi-Delhi)

Description: Have spent the winter in the pool and are eager to try it as soon as possible, what is real kayaking on real rivers? Then this tour is for you! The sacred Indian river Ganges and its sources are the perfect training ground to turn from a tiled kayaker into a real one. It has everything you need: a pleasant subtropical climate and warm water in the rivers, various areas for rafting of any level, large, interesting, but completely safe rapids, simple logistics, accommodation in guesthouses. The greenhouse conditions of Indian kayaking will allow you to not be afraid to make mistakes, learn quickly and really progress.

We have prepared a unique Zero to Hero training program for beginner kayakers. Each day will be filled with training and theory sessions on boat handling, safety, tactics and rafting strategy. We will try what real bigvolume is, Himalayan krieking, and expedition kayaking.

13 days of kayaking on rivers class I - III under the guidance of an experienced guide-instructor in one of the best places for rafting in the world. Forget about the spring Msta under the snow, the flood Okulovka and the cold Polomet.

Requirements for participants: ability to swim, Eskimo coup on smooth water

Price:$900

Himalayan Blitz

Place: India, Uttarakhand Pradesh

Duration: 8 days (Deradun-Deradun)

Tour description: The idea of ​​this trip is simple: capture all the highlights of Uttarakhand Pradesh and still fit in five days of vacation. To do this, you need to fly to the airport of Dehradun (having changed in Delhi) to shorten the long boring transfer to Rishikesh. On the day of arrival, we will immediately start kayaking.

The tour implies a minimum of long journeys and attractions, but a maximum of kayaking in the Himalayas. Suitable for class 3 kayakers who want to start the season early. Warm water, beautiful sandy beaches, jungle, accommodation in comfortable hotels and resorts, excellent Indian food.

Tour program:

Day 1. Arrival in Deradun, short drive to Rishikesh, rafting down the Ganges.

Day 2. Bagirati, transfer to Shivanandi

Day 3. Lower Pinda. Himalayan kriking class 3. Two-day expedition with an overnight stay on the shore.

Day 4. Lower Pinda, finish at Karanprayag, overnight at Sivanandi

Day 5. Mandakini. Himalayan krieking class 3- - 3

Day 6. Alaknanda from Birai to Nandprayag. Medium flow river class 3 - 4

This track impresses with the beauty and power of the surrounding mountains. There are also enough stupas, temples and other local color. The route passes through different climatic zones and allows you to make a very voluminous impression of the Himalayas. It is no coincidence that this is one of the most popular routes in the world.

There is a lot of talk about the Annapurna track being damaged by the road. This is not entirely true. Yes, without the road it would be more atmospheric, but it would take 3 weeks to walk and there would be much less comfort in the shelters. And now there is an opportunity to drive less interesting sections, and see the most important. If you start from Chamzhe, as many do, including us, then the trail soon leaves the road and you don’t have to walk along the side of the road much. And after a couple of walking days, you deepen so much that the transport practically disappears.

As expected, the journey began with a reboot in .

Drop day. Kathmandu - Besisahar (1100m) - Chamzhe (1400m)

We travel by rented bus from Kathmandu to Besisahar. With a check-in for permits and a stop for lunch, it's almost all day. On the way - a hell of a dusty section of the road, variously decorated trucks with the inscriptions "King of the road", and, finally, the mountains.

We arrive in Besisahar in the evening. However, this is not the end of today's move. Then the road is such that you need to look for a jeep. And he is soon, but the driver offers to go tomorrow, since it is already late and it is forbidden to drive in the evening. We are already going to look for a hotel, as the driver suddenly agrees, apparently the thirst for profit has done its job.

And here we are for a few more hours hanging out in the car, which on this road resembles a raft, passing the rapids of the highest category of complexity. At some point, the Chinese jeep breaks down and the wheel falls off. We find ourselves alone in the night on an empty road.

The adventure started abruptly.

I'm figuring out how many kilometers we have to go to the nearest village, and the driver is trying to get a connection to get through to his comrades.

Soon he succeeds and in half an hour we are driving another jeep. But it also breaks down before reaching a few kilometers.

However, this happens suspiciously near the hotel, which is kept by the driver's relatives.

Perhaps this was the original plan, and this is the reason why the driver still agreed to drive at night - the payment of a large group for an overnight stay and food is decent money. That's just the breakdown of the first jeep happened real.

We are already glad that we arrived at least here, and agree to stay for the night.

First walking day. Chamzhe (1400m) – Darapani (1850m)

After talking with the jeepers, we decide to start from the hotel. Let's go a few kilometers more, it's not critical.

The trail goes through a picturesque gorge. We are drawn into the everyday life of trekkers, getting used to walking with backpacks.

If you wish, you can save this day by driving a car, but going here is also not bad.

Second walking day. Darapani (1850m) – Chame (2650m)

On this day, in the immediate vicinity, the first views of the big mountains opened up, which caused a surge of enthusiasm among the whole group.

Annapurna 2 (7525m) is especially beautiful due to its pyramidal shape.

Third walking day. Chame (2650m) - Upper Pisang (3300m)

Not everyone liked walking with a full backpack, so they took two porters to the group.

And the views are getting more beautiful.

And the villages are becoming more authentic.

Upper Pisang is remembered not only by its name. Starting from it, on the track around Annapurna, in each settlement, in addition to the local flavor, the harsh and sublime atmosphere of the highlands was added.

We passed the transition to Upper Pisang in half a day. Having settled in the lodge and having lunch, we went for a walk around the village and, having entered the temple, got to a Buddhist prayer. One monk beat a suspended drum, bringing out a powerful bass rhythm. Two more recitative read a prayer, from time to time picking up long pipes and performing a brass part. It was a whole concert, which, in the end, put me in a state close to a trance. The impression is powerful.

Fourth walking day. Upper Pisang (3300m) - Manang (3550m)

Long walking day with very beautiful views. The length of the route is about 20 km.

Rest day in Manang

Fatigue has accumulated, the height has gained, and Manang with its surroundings is beautiful and original, so we make a day of rest.

We go on a radial walk to Gangnapurna Lake, and the most seasoned one even bathes in this glacial lake.

We climb a little higher, to the ridge, from which excellent views open up.

We look around the old city and turn the prayer wheels.

And we eat yak steak, it is beautiful here and you should definitely try it.

In general, in terms of food, there is a good choice on the entire track around Annapurna, there is not only Dal-bat, but you can always buy pies, bread, etc. for a snack. Beer is sold everywhere. The local rum is pretty good.

Fifth walking day. Manang (3550m) - Tilicho Base Camp (4150m)

We are going on a two-day radial trip to Lake Tilicho, but we have problems. One of the participants fell ill, and it is better for her not to go to the heights, but to heal. We have to leave her in Manang and give the task of self-acclimatization in the vicinity.

In addition, the porters were capricious, trying to beg for more money, but after negotiations we leave.

Going to Tilicho, in all respects, is correct. You can enjoy new beautiful views and at the same time get acclimatized before the highest pass of the Annapurna Trek.

Sixth walking day. Tilicho base camp (4150m)– Lake Tilicho (4949 m) – Manang (3550 m)

Leaving most of the things in the base camp, we lightly rise to Lake Tilicho. However, going is not easy at all. Gornyashka significantly covers, especially since this is a new height for all participants. But most cope and reach the lake.

Then we all descend to Manang, with a stop at the base camp for lunch. You can go down not to Manang, but further along the route, but we had to return to the sick participant. The day was long and hard. Passed about 25 km.

Seventh running day. Manang (3550m) - Yak Karka (4020m)

Sick Natalia feels better. She was on her own for acclimatization, as agreed, and is ready to go further with us.

But one of the porters must return home for family reasons. I had to urgently look for a replacement for him, but, in the end, the issue was resolved.

But the transition on this day is small, which is very useful after yesterday's load.

Eighth running day. Yak Karka (4020m) - Thorong Pedi (4450m) - High Camp (4900m)

We gain height again and it starts to cover, but everyone copes. We make a stop at Thorong Pedi to get used to the altitude and have lunch. We find a guitar and arrange a small concert.

We arrive at High Camp in the late afternoon and all the places are occupied. We are placed in the dining room on the floor. In the evening, to brush your teeth, you need to break the ice on a barrel of water that stands outside.

But this option is better than going in the morning from Thorong Pedi. With dawn, the wind on the pass intensifies and is expensive every hour.

Ninth walking day. High Camp (4900m) - Thorong La Pass (5416m) - Descent to Muktinath (3750m)

We leave in the dark with headlamps. Frost and wind are quite unpleasant, I go with thoughts of dawn. It was worth taking tops or warm mittens. Some got cold feet.

At dawn, we are already close to the pass. A little more, and here it is, Thorong La Pass (5416m) - the highest point of the track around Annapurna.

There is a shack on the pass - a tea house where several types of hot tea are poured - an atmospheric place, the dream of a frozen trekker!

We wait for the laggards and begin the descent down.

We go down to Muktinath, check into a hotel with a great view and a Russian bath!

Tenth running day. Muktinath (3750m) - Jomsom (2700m)

From Muktinath you can take a bus on a good road, but it is worth walking. The trail is beautiful and not difficult, mostly downhill, and goes far from the road.

It was interesting to visit the temple of the pre-Buddhist shamanic faith, the Bon religion, where we were even allowed to beat the prayer wheel.

In Jomsom, we completed our Annapurna trek, took plane tickets, and flew to Pokhara the next day.

Pokhara contrasts strongly with the dusty Kathmadu. This is a neat mountain resort.

Then, on a rented minibus, we returned to.

The track ran from 6 to 17 November 2017. The weather was good all the time, mostly clear. The wind at the pass was not strong - we were also lucky with that.

The group was predominantly female, with little mountain experience. But everyone tried and coped with a serious Himalayan track. Well done!

And the Himalayas are calling to come back and already for the May holidays we are going there for a new cool track.

Traveler Tanya Handel from Brest, who recently spent 150 days on a budget of $ 1 per day, talks about how to organize independent trekking in one of the most picturesque and dangerous mountains - the Nepalese Annapurna massif. Buddhist temples, "apple" villages, bridges, mountain rivers and constant overcoming of oneself. The good news: you don’t need to carry a tent and food - there are villages with guesthouses along the entire route. How to spend time in Kathmandu and relax after conquering the heights - first-hand advice.

To the track. Kathmandu

Nepal is a tiny country sandwiched between China and India. People come here for Buddhist shrines, conquering peaks (for example, you can wave to Everest) and amazing nature.

The only international airport in the country is located in the capital - Kathmandu. This city is worth spending at least three days in it - and it is advisable to do this before trekking around Annapurna. After a hike in the mountains, this city will seem too vain and dusty to you - a real embodiment of chaos. It is better to enjoy it before the track, while your soul has not yet gone deep into the wilds of nirvana. Kathmandu is a whole world, but you can start your acquaintance like this.

Stupa Boudhanath. Stupa, built in the 5th century, is a mecca for Buddhists from all over the world. It is customary to go around the stupa clockwise and turn special drums with the right hand, which are inscribed with prayers in Sanskrit. It is believed that when the drum is spinning, prayers are sent straight to heaven.

You go around the stupa for the first time - you pray for all those living on Earth, the second - for all animals, and only the third - for yourself. One lap is about 800 meters. A good way to beg the local gods for a successful hike and at the same time practice walking. Brisk sellers will put all sorts of knick-knacks into your hands. Around the next corner you can buy the same, but half the price.

Pashupatinath Complex. This is the center of Nepalese Hinduism, founded in the 13th century. In fact, walking around this place will not be joyful and the faint of heart is not recommended at all. But if you still decide - your world will not be the same. People are burned here. Right before your eyes. You stand across a small watery river and watch how a person is first covered with firewood, then watered with something and set on fire. After a while, the ashes and what is left are thrown into the river and the next one is placed. Below, the cows are trying to find something edible, and a dashing Nepalese is wiping dirty dishes with ashes. Relatives and friends of the burned look at everything calmly, apparently, this is how it should be.

You stand across a small watery river and watch how a person is first covered with firewood, then watered with something and set on fire.

Pashupatinath has about a dozen temples dedicated to Shiva. In the middle of each mini-temple stands a lingam - a short cylindrical column with a rounded top, which symbolizes the phallus - the personification of physical strength, creation, renewal. In addition to shrines, Pashupatinath has a special house where the elderly come to die, a hospital for typhoid patients, houses for sadhus and a hotel for pilgrims. In a word, the place is colorful.

Swayambhunadh- temple center of Buddhists on the outskirts of the capital. Also known as the Temple of the Monkeys. Keep in mind that these cute but cunning animals are best avoided. They trade in theft, and although the banana in your hand is much nicer to them than the iphone, tailed ones can steal it too. In the center of the complex there is a large stupa, to which 365 steps lead - this is also a good training before the future ascent.

Finally, the sights of Kathmandu have been examined, a portion of Buddhism has been received, you can go to the mountains.

How to get to the track?

Any independent hike in the mountains of Nepal begins in a small place Nepal Tourist Board (Bhrikuti Mandap, Kathmandu) , where you need to make yourself a permit - permission, without which they will not be allowed into the mountains. This document will have to be shown at special checkpoints in the mountains, so that if you suddenly disappear, the rescuers know when and where you checked in for the last time.

To get to the start of the trek from Kathmandu, take a bus to Besisahar for $4-6. Before the start of the track, the village of Barbule, there will be ten kilometers. Walking does not make sense, cars will rush past and dust right at you. Cunning guys will offer to bring for a ridiculous amount of $ 23 (2,500 Nepalese rupees). Seeing the surprise on your face, they will immediately, brotherly, throw off up to $ 9. And they will be offended, having left with nothing, because the local bus will bring you in for only $ 0.4 (50 rupees). In Barbula, you can stay overnight in inexpensive and clean rooms.

If you go to the track in the low season (winter and summer), then housing can be obtained free of charge. The hosts themselves offer to stay in their guesthouse "for food": you will pay only for what you eat in their restaurant at a tourist cost. The price is the same, as if renting a house and eating from the locals. But in guesthouses there is one very important, especially at first, plus - their food does not make you feel that all the insides are burning with hellish flames. Please note that in the menu there can always be a 5th size postscript that 10% of the total amount is a tax that is added to the bill.

In the high season, the competition between tourists is higher, and it is more difficult to find good places to stay overnight. But you can always find a lodging for the night at the end of the village. Usually no one gets there, and they will want to get you at any cost. Bargain!

Light, hot water and a working outlet are great blessings. They are not always, not everywhere, and at the end of your journey they will seem like mythical echoes of the past.

Start of the track

It is customary to go out on the trail early in the morning, the locals will bow affably and say “namaste”, you can answer the same. Here it is generally customary to greet everyone and smile. Soon nature will take its toll, and you will do it not only because it is customary, but because you yourself want to smile and greet everyone on the way.

Lush vegetation, banana palms and a sea of ​​monkeys gradually give way to harsher views, and snowy peaks can be seen in the distance. Here you will begin to understand that everything that bothered you before is a trifle. The path winds steeper and steeper upward, it becomes harder to breathe, the air becomes thinner and colder. On the way, there are more and more prayer wheels that you spin without missing a single one.

Milarepa cave and Manang village

Near the village of Braka is located Sage Milarepa's Cave. He loved to walk the Himalayas almost 2000 years ago and live in the most unfavorable conditions. Of course, as a yogi, he didn't care. But we, mere mortals, are interested in following his life and visiting the place where he worked miracles. In addition to the cultural part, the hike to the cave of Milarepa is good for acclimatization, you need to give the body time to get used to the high altitude and loads.

One of the important transit points large village of Manang at an altitude of 3500 m. In the village there is a bakery with delicious cakes and a telephone, and even a weak Internet. The truth is, you don't need it anymore.

In Manang, it usually becomes clear who will be able to take the Thorong-La pass at an altitude of 5416 meters, and who better to rest and quietly walk back. But the devil is not as scary as he is painted, so we will move on.

Closer to the pass

By the tenth day, the landscapes become truly northern: ice cliffs, cold stones, green moss and dwarf trees. The hosts and guests of the guesthouses warm up together on long and cold evenings at the bourgeois houses, which are heated with yak cakes. Food is cooked on them, there are not enough trees here.

Time to take the pass. People get serious after a sleepless night waiting for the most important moment on the route. Everyone gathers courage and goes out after dark in the hope of descending from the other side of the mountain. Having opened the door, everyone freezes for a few minutes - the sky that you see there will haunt you in your dreams for a long time to come.

One step, one more step, and take a breath. Extra things in the backpack just begin to nail to the ground, each step is calculated and for this you need to make an effort. Drink a cup of tea - food does not climb into the throat. Here, many turn back, but if you endure, go slowly, with breaks, then in 3-4 hours you will be at the goal.

Extra things in the backpack just start to nail to the ground, each step is calculated and for this you need to make an effort

Joyful cries, hundreds of flags and happy faces. General fun, hugs of complete strangers, a photo for memory and a feeling of incredible pride. For yourself, for the people, for being here.

road down

But it's not over yet - you have to go down. Thorong-La is treacherous: it lets a gullible hiker in, but doesn't really want to let it go down. The weather here can change in minutes, it is strictly forbidden to go into a snow storm and a snowstorm. Although in general the process of conquering the pass is not so difficult, but bad weather can complicate this matter at times.

The descent down is long and monotonous, you need to be patient. But below, in Muktinada, all the difficulties will pay off three times! There is hot water, warm and cozy rooms. And on the outskirts of the village you can eat real borscht from a hospitable host from Ukraine.

Everything below Muktinada was already on the way up. You look at the villages and the surrounding nature with a friendly look. Particular attention should be paid to the unusual apple village of Marfa. Here apples live their six lives: apple juice, dried apples, apple pie, apple cider and brandy, and apples themselves. All of these are delicious and inexpensive. The village itself is painted white, the streets are unusually empty and clean.

Already downstairs, after so many hardships, you can feel like a special royal blood, swimming in the hot springs of Tatopani. You should not pass this place side by side, succumbing to the desire to return to civilization as soon as possible. Next bus to Pokhara.

6 facts about trekking around Annapurna

Track difficulty - 3/5

Average walking distance - 165 km

​ Maximum height - Thorong-La pass 5416 m

​ The number of days - an average of 13 (can be reduced to 10 and increased to infinity)

To cast to the starting point of the track, you need to go through all the circles of hell: denial, anger, depression and acceptance. In more detail - drive along the serpentine along the killed Nepalese roads (or their absence).

Roads in Nepal are a separate attraction. From Kathmandu or to Besisakhar (the beginning of the track), the track can still be called a road somehow. But if you want to throw yourself higher into the mountains - get ready, it will not be forgotten! Because there is no road.

In a small dead old jeep loaded with chickens, boxes, Nepalese and other necessary rubbish for living, you will be offered a ride with the breeze to the desired village .. Most likely four in the back seat.

All the way you will be shaking all over the cabin, Nepalese pissant yelling through the speakers, a cliff into the abyss from the window, and the speed of movement is actually equal to walking ..

But when you crawl out of this jeep in hysterics with the words “I won’t go further”, turn around and see the mountains ... That’s it, your heart stops and you say in admiration: “yes, I won’t go further, I’ll go on foot!”.

Day 2. Jagat 1300 m - Donakyu 2300 m.

The first walking day can be called the day of waterfalls, stone stairs, lizards and goats. Difficult, hard, hot (for now), but beautiful. You raise your head and go dumb with delight. All I hear from the guys is “how beautiful! Waterfall right on the road! Look, lizard. Goats, what a cutie."

One day passed like two. So many emotions, impressions and new sensations! The second half was with goats, I felt like a shepherd, so funny!

It's getting cold… There was no inteta in the lodge. Everything is simple here: there is a cloud, there is no wifi. We didn’t see big mountains either - a lot of clouds, this distinguishes the beginning of autumn from the end.

Day 3. Donakyu 2300 m - Chame 2670 m.

Abandoning the elevator and walking to the 7th floor was a great idea! There are several “stone stairs to the sky” on the route around Annapurna, and if last year I died on a similar rise, now I have climbed 110 floors on foot. Only. Ease!

There are no big mountains in sight. Manaslu was overcast. Annapurna behind the cloud. It is rainy. But still beautiful and without snowy peaks - we are surrounded by 4 thousand green hills. If we're lucky, we'll see the Annapurna peaks tomorrow.

Day 4. Chame 2670 m - Upper Pisang 3300 m.

Sweaty, breathless with fatigue, we crawled up. On the right is the Svargadvari plateau of stunning beauty. Stunned, caught their breath, stomped on.

Higher and higher along the forest path. After 6 hours, we reached Upper Pisang, having crossed the mark of 3000 m. Finally, we saw them: the snowy peaks of Annapurna II and Annapurna IV. Not transferable!

I have internet breakdown: two days without communication and I understand that for another 5 days there can only be communication with space. Clouds, disperse! I need snowy peaks, starry sky and internet.

Day 5. Upper Pisang 3300 m - Braga 3360 m.

Of course, you can shamanize the weather as much as you like. Smoke weed, cast spells and disperse the clouds with your hands, but nature will still decide as it needs. And usually these plans do not coincide with yours.

It rained all night and all morning. There was nothing to do: put on all the raincoats, jackets and stomped the lower path. Going up would be suicidal.

Walking in the rain is not the most pleasant thing. You get tired quickly, the mood is so-so. But to be honest, it's been worse. And all these whims of nature are forgiven for drop dead views and hot tea. It's worth it. Oh yeah!

Day 6. Acclimatization. Milarepa cave 4000m. Braga - Kangsar.

Walk higher, sleep lower - the iron rule of high-mountain trekking. Well, we went too. There are two options from Braga: 1) Ice Lake 4600m or 2) Milarepa cave 4000m. Guess where we went?

That's right, on Milarepa, there is nothing to tear *ops for the sake of a puddle at 4600 m ... We need to be healthy, not kill ourselves. Moreover, a beautiful “puddle” awaits us in a couple of days - Lake Tilicho.

To say that we quickly ran to the hillock and returned is not to lie, but to embellish reality. They crawled like turtles, sat and looked at the tiny world - more like the truth.

After lunch, we took backpacks and moved towards Lake Tilicho. We stayed overnight in a very authentic and semi-abandoned village of Kangsar. It was difficult to find a decent lodge: there are only three of them, and in addition to trekkers, harsh Nepalese rats live in all of them. Neighborhood is not the most pleasant, is it?

The owner of the lodge was so pleased with the five tourists that she sang songs all evening, jumped for joy and cooked us delicious fried rice. I fell asleep without hind legs without noticing the rat neighborhood. The kids aren't so lucky. It's good to have a good night's sleep!

Day 7. Kangsar - Tilicho Base Camp 4150 m.

Lake Tilicho is one of the most beautiful and my favorite places on the Annapurna circle. It is not included in the “standard 2-week program”, as it is located a little away from the main trail. However, it is worth it to spend the extra 2-3 days of hiking, strength and a little headache.

It’s not that difficult to go to Tilicho base camp, but it’s scary: the trail runs along a loose slope (loose) and this segment must be run quickly and silently, otherwise “the sikir will hit the head”.

Donkeys, horses, trekkers returning from the base camp immediately come towards them, and sometimes it’s difficult to part with them (but no one has fallen yet, although you won’t find it there). In fact, at such a height you walk in a state of coma and do not notice the abyss below. Fun and dangerous. Who said it would be easy?

The morning began with an unexpected uphill climb for the body ... My body did not want to accept reality, but we had already crossed the line when we could turn back. Now just full speed ahead. Like it or not. Do not crawl so push! The pass is close!

Then there was the worst thing on the whole track: dryness. Not for the faint of heart. You look down, and there is a cliff for kilometers! You look up, and there are stones that just want to fly into your head .. Quickly, without breathing, on the last reserves, we crawled to Tilicho base camp - 4150m. We didn't get too far, did we?!

And yet the guys nasmanili! The sky parted and showed us the snowy peaks. Who dreams of mountaineering will understand me! There are only 2 things in the world worth living for: love and mountains. Well, okay, okay .. More sea, kittens and condensed milk.
⠀
How I want cola and nutella, damn it! And climb up to that peak! Dreams Dreams..

Day 8. Tilicho base camp - Lake Tilicho 4919m - Sri Kharka.

"Let's go, let's go!" - straight army mode, but how else?! Step, two, rest, photo. Step two, rest, drink water. Step, two, and when is there a halt?

The ascent to the lake takes 4 hours. All the way you are twisted and flattened, there is no strength to go. The body and the brain are completely different things. The brain gives a signal “come on, come on, go ahead”, and the body says “I can’t, I won’t go, I don’t want to” .. But I want to and I’ll get there!

All this obscurantism brightens up Tilicho Peak, along which there is an ascent. There has been a lot of snow this year! A turn, and then another, and another. Where is the damn lake? Flags become visible and here it is - sky blue, reflecting the sky, peace and glacier ...

Day 9. Sri Kharka - Yak Kharka 4050m.

Where is Shambhala located? Definitely in the Himalayas! How can you describe the mountains in words to someone who did not tower over these snow thugs?

Mountains don't conquer, you know? Because the mountains are separate individuals, with their own character, mood and energy. Say now - bullshit, these are stones! But this is not bullshit .. The mountain can let go, it can kill, it can appear in all its beauty, or it can hide behind a cloud. Mountains are individuals. And if you treat them with respect, they will become your best friends.

While we were going to Yak Kharka, translated as yak pasture, a huge and hairy yak blocked our way. It's like a cow, only very hairy. Of course, we began to take pictures and shoot him - you don’t often see such a handsome man.

Day 10. Yak Kharka 4050m - High Camp 4850m.

“Where is the shower?”
“There is no shower here, no one has ever washed blankets here, water and toilets freeze here, and the only warm place is by the stove.”

And how do you imagine a shelter at an altitude of almost 5000m? Shower? Maybe even a sauna, massage and a French restaurant? To be honest, we were lucky with the weather, September turned out to be very warm and we took hot showers every day, except for High Camp (there is not and is unlikely to be).

If you didn't die on the way up to Tilicho, you will die on the way up to High Camp. Of course, you can stay in the lower shelter Thorong Pfedi, but then you will die in the morning. Better now. In addition, climbing 400 meters up in the dark is dangerous and, to put it mildly, there is no path there.

Slowly, without sudden movements, the mountains do not like haste. In full force and health, we climbed 4850m to the sky. There is no way back. Do not crawl so push! Crossing tomorrow.

Day 11. High Camp 4850m - Thorong La Pass 5416m - Muktinath 3800m.

Now it will definitely flatten! A crowd of humanoids, green men and just perverts. I count myself among the latter. Going to Thorong La pass is not the place for beautiful views. This is a time for reflection, conversations with God and overcoming oneself. I have not yet seen a single person who crawled to the pass with a cheerful step and said “wow, I want more”. But I saw crawling, green, lying and even hysterical people halfway to the pass ..

I love mountain climbing, it's funny to watch the bifurcation of the body - you want to go faster, but you can't. The head cracks, the limbs go numb, freeze, breathing is heavy, the legs do not obey. The state of complete observation.

And here you can see the flags - victory! You could, crawled! For me, this is a feat, not a peak, but a height - 5416! So what is next? Further down, the most difficult section is yet to come.

On September 27 at 8:33 the first group around Annapurna, codenamed “Three Sashas and two more”, successfully passed the Thorong La pass at an altitude of 5416 meters.

Hurrah!!! We congratulate all participants on the height and wish new personal victories, peaks and mountains! You are great fellows! Hugs, victory photo and down, and so the miner stomps.

Someone dies on the way to the pass, and I die from the descent from it .. Here is such an extreme: 2000 meters down, 4 hours of killing knees. Those who have sore knees will understand me .. But no matter what the doctors say, I will go to the mountains! Then I’ll insert titanium ones and start jumping like a goat, but for now, with tears, on painkillers or on my ass, down.

In Muktinath we went to dinner at a Russian lodge. Ukrainian borscht with a Nepalese twist after a couple of weeks of fried rice was a Michelin star! If you go around the Annapurna Circle, be sure to stop by Dmitry and taste his borscht! I give you the address, and you give me a recipe from Dmitry. Agreed?

Day 12. Mukitinath 3800 m - Kagbeni 2800 m.

Do you believe in places of power? You may not believe it, but they are. Muktinath (in ancient times Shalagrama) is a sacred place for professing Hinduism and Buddhism.

Muktinath is located in the Mustang district at an altitude of 3710 m. Hindu pilgrims call this place Mukti Kshetra (“place of liberation, salvation, healing”), Buddhists call it Chumming Gyatsa (“one hundred sacred waters”), the place where the goddess Dakinis live, who bring healing and well-being.

Here is one of the 8 most sacred Hindu temples - a small ancient temple of Lord Vishnu. Behind him there are 108 sacred springs of ice water, which are arranged in a semicircle. It is believed that a pilgrim who takes a bath in 108 springs is cleansed of the sins of his former life. Tempting, right?

A couple of hours and you find yourself in another holy place - Kagbeni, a small Tibetan village on the border with the forbidden kingdom of Upper Mustang and at the source of the Kali Gandaki River.

Here, at the bottom of the Kali Gandaki River, shilagram sila rest, hundreds of millions of which are missing. Some consider them to be fossilized mollusks, others to be deities. One way or another, sacred “stones” can be found right in the riverbed. I found! They are beautiful.

Day 13. Kagbeni 2800 m - Marfa 2670 m.

Dust flew in the face, the wind lifted the stones, carried them off our feet, but we walked ... Through the famous breeze of Kali Gandaki. Have you heard of this?

90% of the groups complete the “circle” by descending from the pass. Some of them leave in jeeps or buses, some fly away on a cornfield. At the same time, the latter fly only early in the morning and only in good weather. And all because in the Kaligandak gorge (the deepest gorge in the world, for a second) from about 12 days madness begins: a wind tunnel with a frantic wind flow. We couldn't miss this.

Wrapped up in buffs and windmills, we crawled towards the sweetest Tibetan village of Marfa. Only warm memories of this village and dreams of a delicious dinner helped me not to fall into despair. The wind of Kali Gandaki stubbornly continued to drive us back. Dust endlessly then flew into the eyes, nose, ears .. it seemed to me that she was everywhere, even in shorts! Then I checked and it was...

Insanely tired from the struggle with the elements, we reached the place of spending the night. Marfa is a small Tibet among Nepal. Tibetan refugees live their measured lives in the narrow streets of Marfa. They go to a Buddhist monastery, pick apples, sell trinkets made from old Tibetan coins, and host weary travelers in their lodges.

In this village we also finish our walking part of the Annapurna trek. Tomorrow we are waiting for a local bus (that's another attraction!) Which will take us to the Tatopani hot springs at a speed of 10 km per hour along the cliff. Especially sensitive at the window do not sit down!

Day 14. Marfa - Tatopani 1200 m.

The Nepalese bass locale is the line between crazy and fun. Stuffed like sprats in a jar, passengers are shaking along the edge of a cliff in a broken-down bus where everything is held on by adhesive tape at an over speed of 10, well, a maximum of 20 km per hour. In addition, bags, boxes, cans, backpacks and even animals are thrown on top.

The first rule of bass localization is that there is always room. Even when it seems to you that there is nowhere to shove that grandmother with a box of chickens, the Nepalese will find where.

The rule is codenamed “dal baht”. About every hour the bass stops for dal baht (to devour). All passengers, led by the driver, order dal baht (Nepalese rice with pea stew) for themselves, happily gobble up and then just as happily puke the floor of the road.

M. Marijuana accompanies all this bacchanalia, so that it would be more fun to go? Alas, no .. Music - shouting something positive and squeaky Nepalese at the whole bass.

Ooooh yes! It is not passed on to any description. But it must be experienced. At least once, otherwise there will be nothing to remember .. And what do we live for? Only for the sake of vivid memories! How do you think?

In the evening we went to bask in the Tatopani hot springs. Big bathroom with a bunch of people in bathing suits warming their bones after the track. Bliss! Even though I don't like hot baths, there is nothing more beautiful and relaxing after a track.

Day 15. Tatopani 1200 m - Pokhara.

- Where did you rest? - In Turkey, where "all inclusive". And you? - And I'm in the mountains, where "everything is OFF"

We went down to Pokhara and settled in the Lakeside tourist area, which is very different from the whole city and from Nepal as a whole. Lakeside is a small Europe inside Nepal: cafes, restaurants, shops, ATMs, various agencies, hotels and even a huge supermarket! All this stretched out in a long street along the beautiful Lake Phewa. If I lived in Nepal, then by all means on Lakeside, where you can spend infinity looking at the lake and mountains.

As an entertainment, you can rent a boat and ride on the lake. Swim to the other side, leave the boat at the bottom and climb the Stupa of Peace, from where a stunning view of the entire Annapurna massif opens.