Sverdlovsk Buddhist monks (Shad Tchup Ling). Mount Kachkanar and Shad Tchup Ling Monastery In the Urals, a Buddhist monastery will be demolished

And here again the restless head and walking legs again carried me through the countryside of the Fatherland. My eighteen-year-old daughter and friend Denis volunteered to go with me. Our path this time was already a little further than usual - although rich Perm region on the sights, but they also come to an end sometime. No, of course, you can watch a lot more, but here priorities and Wishlist come into play. And they gravitate more and more to large spaces and mountains. In a word - to scale.

This time was chosen aside Sverdlovsk region: almost on the border with Perm region There is city ​​of Kachkanar. He is glorious Kachkanar Mining and Processing Plant (Evraz Holding), which in its vicinity is mining titanomagnetite ore.

View of the monastery from the height of the northern peak of the mountain

What can be seen in Kachkanar
and on the way to it?

Most of the sights are concentrated in the area of ​​the same name. mountains: the mountain itself with its rocks on top, a mountain lake at the place where the stone was mined, Buddhist monastery And stele to Gagarin. At the foot of the mountain, on the way to the top Western quarry of Kachkanarsky GOK. Also if you go to the side Perm Territory, then 40 kilometers from Kachkanar you can visit mountain.

But more about everything below. Since there was a lot of photographic material, with all my desire, I could not cram the unpushable and show all these objects without loss in one report. Therefore, there will be three parts - one about the monastery, and the second - about other sights Kachkanar, well, the third one is about Mount Kolpaki.

How to get there?

get to Kachkanar not difficult - Kachkanar located 280 km from Perm and 260 from Yekaterinburg. Didn't check the road from Ekata, but from Perm the road is quite, albeit very winding.

GPS coordinates

58.77678, 59.38694

Shad Tchup Ling Monastery on the map

How to climb to the top?

We chose the longer route - from Western Quarry. The reason for this is simple - only by following this path you can see for yourself Western Quarry.

To get to the starting point of this route, you need to drive through the city, turn in the direction Western Career, cross the dam and soon you will see the checkpoint of the company Evraz. Feel free to leave the car there, turn into the undergrowth on the left and bypass the checkpoint. After that, you can safely go back to the road to continue the path without fearing anyone. The road is gentle and carefully smoothed by graders. After about 2.5 kilometers you will reach a fork - on the right there will be an observation deck with views of the quarry, and the road to the monastery turns left. On this road, you need to go for about 4 km without turning anywhere to a fork with a tree decorated with ribbons. To the right there will be a road to the monastery, and straight ahead to a mountain lake and rock camel.

For those who do not want to trample on white legs, I can offer a life hack on how to shorten the walking distance by 6-7 kilometers. Find out the phone number of the pass office at the KGOK reception, contact it and get the necessary passes for the tourist purpose of the visit. I did not check it myself (because the day before was a day off), but according to the reports of the method, it works. On a four-wheel drive car with a normal clearance, you can get to a fork with a "ribbon" tree - in some places, closer to the top, there is still snow on the road.

Shad Tchup Ling Buddhist Community

Story Shad Tchup Ling(in Tibetan pronunciation "Shaddubling", Tib. bshad sgrub gling; "Place of study and implementation") is directly related to the personality of his lama - Sanye Tenzin Dokshit (Mikhail Sannikov) who, at the direction of his teacher Pem Janga (Darma Dodi Zhalsaraeva) in mid-May 1995 arrived at Mount Kachkanar and laid the first stone of the monastery there.

For 22 years of existence on the harsh stones of the mountain, the monastery (a small reservation regarding this below) under the supervision of Lama Dokshit gradually rebuilt. Its current state is far from admirable - it is striking that despite the heroic efforts of followers, the lack of resources affects literally everything and construction is moving very slowly. However, over the past year, the monks have erected a number of important objects, including a large buddha statue. As far as I understand, in order for the community to have the right to be called a monastery, it must build 8 stupas - half have already been created, and the monks intend to finish the rest in 2017.

To support the community, it is good manners when visiting to bring building materials or food. To find out the most relevant things, it is better to call the community in advance and clarify the information with the guest attendant. No one obliges you to anything, but just keep in mind that you are just a curious guest within these walls. We took with us a drill for a perforator and sweets for tea.

In addition to tourists, the community is also hospitable to pilgrims, detailed information can be obtained.

In my opinion, the monastery looks most beautiful in winter, when wind and frost cover everything in a thick layer of frost. However, to see all this magnificence, you will have to work hard - the many kilometers uphill skiing is thorny.

Why go so far and climb so high?

To get to the monastery you need to go through the main gate.

The doors of the gate have colorful painting. Wind, humidity and cold are quite merciless even for modern acrylic paints.

Video

A small video from the series “what I see with a foot” - don’t pay attention to my scratched face - I was in such a hurry to get ready the day before that I drove into the box in the head when loading shmurdyak.

What to see nearby?

Stay on the line - there are two more promised notes ahead: about herself and Mount Kolpaki.

Looking through the guide to the Urals, I mentally planned my trips around the region, marking the most interesting places and routes on the map. One of these places is Mount Kachkanar, located in the north of the Sverdlovsk region and is one of the highest peaks of the Middle Urals.The Buddhist monastery Shad Tchup Ling is located on the mountain. It is the only Buddhist datsan in the Urals. Googling on the Internet, I found out that the monastery has its own group in contact http://vk.com/shad_tchup_ling. I phoned the monastery to arrange my visit. Received the approval of the Chief Lama Dokshit, me allowed to visit the monastery and stay overnight. Mon the phone he asked me to bring some products and told in detail how to get to them.

Packing up my hiking backpack, early in the morning I went to Shad Tchup Ling.

The route of my journey started from the city of Verkhny Tagil, by car I drove to the city of Kachkanar. Citywas founded to ensure the development of a group of Kachkanar deposits. From the moment the decision on construction was made to the present day, the city has been inextricably linked with the mining and processing plant. The construction of the GOK and the city began in 1957 and was declared a shock Komsomol construction site.

From the city Kachkanar went to the checkpoint of the Western Quarry, this is the end point of the movement by car, then we had to walk uphill.

After about 2 km of climbing uphill, I went to the observation deck of the Western Quarry. Its development began back in the 30s and 40s. All mined ore from the quarry is transported tomining and processing plant (GOK) "Kachkanarsky", located nearby, mthe processing capacity of which is 33 million tons of iron ore per year.Kachkanarsky GOK is the largest mining and processing enterprise in Russia.

There are traces of sleds on the trail: there are dogs in the monastery, on which novices lift food and various loads uphill.

There is a sign on the path. Denoting: if you go straight - you will come to the rock "camel", if you go to the right - you will come to the monastery. From this sign to the monastery, it remains to walk 1 km.

Now about how the monastery appeared on Mount Kachkanar.
Lama Dokshit (meaning protector) is a former military man, I will talk about him a little later. His teacher - Darma Dodi Zhalsaraev - lived in Buryatia. One day the teacher dreamed of a beautiful monastery on a mountain called Kachkanar. In the morning he called Lama Dokshit and told him about his dream. They started looking for a mountain with that name and found it 5,500 kilometers from Buryatia in the very center of the Urals. There Lama Dokshit started building the monastery in 1995. WITHThe construction of the monastery according to the construction plan is designed for 300 years.

The construction is carried out according to the ancient Tibetan and Mongolian canons of monastic architecture, which allows preserving the local ecosystem and harmoniously fitting the complex of structures into the picturesque landscape of Mount Kachkanar.The main function of the monastery is the organization and provision of the Buddhist practical process: rituals, services, traditional festive events, individual and collective practices.

This year, solar panels were installed in the monastery, thanks to which internal lighting appeared in all buildings, the ability to charge phones and a laptop.

Now four novices live in the monastery, not counting the Lama, who undergo practice, work around the house and fulfill various vows. Someone has been living for 12 years, someone came a month ago.

Lama Sanye Tenzin Dokshit in the world Mikhail Vasilyevich Sannikov is a very kind, open-hearted person with a subtle sense of humor. You can talk with him on any topic, I even got the impression that he knows the answer to any question. Different people constantly come to Lama Dokshit, of different levels of wealth and class. Ordinary tourists come in for the sake of curiosity, advanced Buddhists and Yoga Guru come to practice in the monastery. Many come just to chat, talk about life, gain experience. He does not impose his opinion on anyone, he does not moralize and sell religion, as various preachers of various religions do.

I will tell you a little about life in the monastery. An attendant is appointed every day. He wakes up before everyone else, melts the stove, prepares food and clears the table.

There are kettles of hot tea on the stove all the time. Kettles are insulated with caps to keep warm longer. In white - black tea, in the rest - green. In such frosts, tea helps to warm up, they drink it here all the time and treat all guests. Lama Dokshit jokes that "our water is magical." Jokes aside, but the water is really very tasty, despite the fact that there is no teaching or spring on the mountain. In the summer, the guys collect rainwater, in the winter they raise it from a special pit-well.

There is an altar in a separate room. To honor the Body of the Buddha, images (tanka) of the Buddha statue are placed on the altar.

Eight cups for offering a gift, water is poured into them in the morning, poured out in the evening. Rice is poured into some cups, it is also used as an offering.

To the left of the altar are sacred texts - this is the speech of the Buddha, the teaching through which living beings achieve Enlightenment. Therefore, they are considered the most sacred object on the altar.

Various ritual accessories.

In the morning I went for a walk around the monastery, to admire the winter beauty of Mount Kachkanar.

An interesting rock called "Camel", there really is a similarity.

It's time to go back home, I say goodbye to Lama Dokshi and his students. Thank you for the hospitality, for the magic tea and interesting communication.

If you are planning to visit the monastery, do not forget to bring gifts with you - building materials, mounting foam, any products, etc. It is better to call or write to the monastery in advance to find out about current needs.

Story

Foundation of the monastery

Lama Sanye Tenzin Dokshit, aka Mikhail Sannikov, got acquainted with Buddhism in the late 1980s in Afghanistan, where he, as a regular officer, commander of a special forces unit, saw monuments of Buddhist civilization on the mountain passes, which flourished there before the arrival of Muslims. After the end of the Afghan war, Sannikov retired from the army, went to Buryatia, to the Ivolginsky datsan, becoming a student of Darma-Dodi Zhalsaraev.

On May 15, 1995 Lama Sanye Tenzin Dokshit started the construction of a Buddhist monastery on Mount Kachkanar. The place for her was indicated to him by his teacher.

For 20 years, Shad Tchup Ling has become one of the largest centers for the study of Buddhism in Russia and simply an attraction that attracts thousands of tourists.

Court for territory

Members of the community tried many times to legalize the buildings, but the rights to the land were claimed by the mining and processing plant, whose quarries are located nearby, and the forestry department.

On February 9, information appeared on the website of the Office of the Federal Bailiff Service for the Sverdlovsk Region about the upcoming demolition of the "Buddhist monastery" on Mount Kachkanar. The life's work and the fruits of the incredible perseverance of Mikhail Sannikov and hundreds of people who helped him during these years may go to waste, and "the Buddhist stupas that captivate the imagination among the Ural mountains" may disappear.

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Notes

Links

Excerpt characterizing Shad Tchup Ling

On the stage there were even boards in the middle, painted pictures depicting trees stood on the sides, and a canvas on boards was stretched behind. In the middle of the stage were girls in red corsages and white skirts. One, very fat, in a white silk dress, was sitting especially on a low stool, to which a green cardboard was pasted at the back. They all sang something. When they finished their song, the girl in white went up to the prompter's booth, and a man in tight-fitting silk pantaloons on thick legs, with a feather and a dagger, came up to her and began to sing and spread his arms.
The man in tight trousers sang alone, then she sang. Then they both fell silent, the music began to play, and the man began to run his fingers over the hand of the girl in the white dress, obviously waiting for the beat again to begin his part with her. They sang together, and everyone in the theater began to clap and shout, and the man and woman on the stage, who portrayed lovers, began to bow, smiling and spreading their arms.

The way to the monastery is described in detail on his website and the VKontakte group (links at the end of the post). In short, from the city you need to get to the checkpoint of the Western Quarry. From there, 8 kilometers uphill, the climb is about 550m. The road is wide, rocky, to the main landmark - a tree with ribbons. From there, a steeper ascent along a slushy path begins. But how beautiful this path is! Just a fairy tale! Mixed forest, stones covered with moss and lingonberries, air, as they say, eat at least with a spoon!
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04) In a couple of meters away from the path, in a few seconds I picked up a handful of delicious lingonberries

I reached the monastery at 21:00, at sunset.
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I was warmly welcomed, offered to take a bath, treated to tea and homemade cake.
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The main room where the inhabitants of the monastery spend their time is the dining room, where they eat, receive guests, and sleep.
I really liked the calm atmosphere that reigned in the monastery: everyone is sitting on the floor, drinking tea, someone is reading, someone is just sitting, everyone is talking little and quietly.
When it was time for lights out as scheduled, we cleared the tables, unfolded our sleeping bags, and went to bed. I spent the whole next day in the monastery.

Reference:
The Buddhist monastery Shad Tchup Ling (Tib. "Place of practice and realization") was founded by Mikhail Vasilyevich Sannikov, born in 1961. After serving in Afghanistan, he studied at a Buddhist institute near (Buryatia), practiced in datsans in Mongolia and Tuva. He then received initiation as a lama and on May 15, 1995, arrived at Mount Kachkanar to start building a monastery, the exact location of which was indicated to him by his teacher Pema Jang (Darma Dodi Zhalsaraev, 1904-1997). For the first two years, Lama Sanye Tenzin Dokshit erected the walls of the monastery alone: ​​for this he burned fires between the rocks, with a crowbar and a sledgehammer he broke out stones and clay - the main building material. Over time, volunteers began to join the construction, and now there are several permanent residents in the monastery, there are already quite a few buildings on the territory, there is water (from reservoirs located above), electricity (generator + solar panels) and gas. But there is still a lot of work - after all, the construction plan is designed for 300 years.
A lot of tourists come to the monastery - some just to stare, and some - to take part in the construction.
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In the morning I got up at 7, for breakfast there was buckwheat with vegetables. Before eating, a prayer, then each of his plate shifts a little into an iron bowl, passed around. At first I thought it was some kind of religious ritual, but it turned out that this is how everyone chipped in to feed the little affectionate cat that lives here, which constantly climbs on you and purrs as soon as it sees that you have sat down or lay down. Also, several dogs of the same breed live in a separate enclosure.
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After breakfast, Lama Dokshit assigned duties for the day's work. At first we carried sandbags in the company of the dog Baptiste. Then Dima and I, who has been living here for more than 5 years, laid a roof on the roof of the enclosure, where the dog Nastya was bustling right under us and her puppies were squeaking. The weather was constantly changing: when it rained or hail, we took a break for tea.
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After lunch I climbed up the mountain to look at the rocks.
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21) The same camel

After that, I must admit, I was a little disdainful of the mountains below 1500m. But in the Urals, I realized that the height does not matter at all. Stunning views, huge rocks covered with millennial wrinkles, dense vegetation ... Here I fell head over heels in love with the Ural Mountains.
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Unfortunately, it was not possible to enjoy loneliness, because. in the afternoon, a loud-mouthed shkolota climbed the mountain.
In the evening we picked rocks and then puttyed the Parinirvana Stupa. Before dinner, we went to the bathhouse, where we steamed well with a fir broom.
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29) View from the bath

In the morning, after breakfast, Lama Dokshit took me to Kachkanar on a quad bike.

In general, it can be called a monastery for the time being conditionally - the main part of the inhabitants are practicing laymen, not monks. Nevertheless, a very pleasant place, I rested my soul. If possible, I will definitely come here for a longer period.

Here are some links