Times don't choose

The legendary Czech traveler Miroslav ZIKMUND: “When I was once again interrogated by representatives of state security, I told them:“ I survived during the hunt for skulls - I will survive your persecution too ”

40 years ago, after the Prague Spring, travelers and writers Miroslav Zikmund and Jiri Hanzelka were "buried" alive by the new government of the Czechoslovak Socialist Republic.

It was like a fairy tale: two young Czechs decide to see the world and, defying all dangers, cross entire continents behind the wheel of a Tatra! And when? Right after the nightmarish war, when Europe was still in ruins. Having traveled Africa from north to south and America from south to north in 1947-1950, Jiri Ganzelka and Miroslav Zikmund returned home to Czechoslovakia in a romantic halo of glory. Books about their adventures on the roads of the continents diverged instantly - 120 thousand on the first day of sale. They were also printed in the USSR - for several generations of Soviet people, securely closed by the Iron Curtain, the bestsellers of Zikmund and Ganzelka became a window into an inaccessible world. And then came 1968, when Soviet tanks buried the hopes of Czechs and Slovaks for free choice and development. Jiri Ganzelka and Miroslav Zikmund were active participants in the Prague Spring, for which they paid the price - they were forgotten. What could be worse for people who were at the height of their fame? Only after the fall of communism in 1989 did they again begin to appear on TV screens and on the air of radio stations. Miroslav Zikmund lives in the town of Zlín in the east of the Czech Republic. A little over four hours by train from Prague, and an idyllic mountain landscape opens up to the eye. Zlin is a quiet town where they do not understand Russian. Employees of the city museum come to the rescue: they proudly demonstrate the exposition “Through five parts of the world with engineers Hanzelka and Zikmund”, and then explain in detail how to find the house of Miroslav Zikmund. Half an hour later, the legendary traveler meets me at the doorstep of his house, where, as it turned out, there is neither a computer nor the Internet, but only books, books, books...

“OUR 180-PAGE SECRET “SPECIAL REPORT No. 4” I PERSONALLY HANDED TO LEONID ILYICH”

— Irzhi and I were probably not unique in our dreams of seeing the world... Every boy or girl wants to fly out of the family nest: to get to know life, to see other countries.

I met Hanzelka in 1938 at the economic school in Prague, where we studied. He turned out to be just as romantic as I was, and we began to prepare for the trip around the world that we were going to take after graduation. The war interfered with our plans, but we did not give up our dream: we learned languages, read books, collected maps.

When peace returned to Europe, we decided to turn to the director of the Tatra automobile plant for help. We learned the watchman's name and went straight to him. Showed their papers with a detailed travel plan. It was data about different countries, geographical maps - only about 500 pages of text and drawings. And they asked: “Give us a car, and we will advertise the Tatra all over the world.” “People like you,” he said, “come almost every day and say, ‘Give me a car for free,’ but it seems that you are not swindlers and really prepared.” So we got transport and support in our travels.

- Did you justify the director's hopes about advertising?

- After crossing the Nubian desert, newspapers wrote about our "Tatra" as a car that is best adapted to the conditions of Africa. After all, she did not need water, but had air cooling. The contract we signed in Nairobi called for the delivery of 6,000 vehicles. But then the communists came to power in Czechoslovakia, who were no longer interested in contracts. Representatives from Nairobi were not even allowed to come to Prague.

- Your travels ended in the USSR - the most closed state in the world at that time. If you had not traveled through the expanses of the Land of the Soviets, perhaps your fate would have turned out differently ...

- Our journey through the Union was interrupted in 1964, when the Soviet leadership asked to state our view of the situation in the country. We were already experienced travelers, visited many countries and could compare. They wrote "Special Report No. 1" - about Indonesia, No. 2 - about Western Iran, No. 3 - about Japan. The fourth is about the USSR. In the USSR, they traveled from Japan home to Europe, drove from Vladivostok to Moscow. Moreover, we had complete freedom of movement, we could even visit closed areas and gave a frank analysis of the political, economic and moral situation in the country. We wanted to help change something for the better - this seemed very important to us, because the reality of life in the USSR was the exact opposite of Soviet propaganda.

We gave our report to the then General Secretary of the Czechoslovak Communist Party, Novotny, and asked him to send one copy to Moscow. We were told that the Central Committee of the Communist Party of Czechoslovakia could not send the document by party mail, because in Moscow they might think that the Czechoslovak Communist Party shared the opinion of Zikmund and Ganzelka. Then Brezhnev came to Prague as a guest of the XIII Congress of the Communist Party of Czechoslovakia. I was invited to the Central Committee, where I gave our 180-page secret "Special Report No. 4" personally to Leonid Ilyich.

We thought that our observations would give the authorities in Moscow and Prague material for reflection and action, but Brezhnev did not want to delve into them. He handed over the report to his subordinates, and they rated him as anti-Soviet - the biggest sin in those days. Indeed, it followed from the document that socialism as a political and economic system was mediocre and unpromising. But then to express critical remarks about the Soviet Union meant signing a sentence for oneself. Brezhnev’s words reached us: they say, “Zikmund and Ganzelka need to be taught a lesson by hunger” ... Since then, access to the USSR was closed to us, although we were going to come at least once more, and then write a big book about the Soviet Union.

“ONLY YEVGENY YEVTUSHENKO RESPONDED TO MY CALL TO STOP THE SOVIET INVASION IN CZECHOSLOVAKIA”

Jiri was even a candidate for the presidency of Czechoslovakia. After five days of Soviet occupation, I turned on the radio with an appeal in Russian to Brezhnev, Kosygin, academicians Keldysh, Lavrentiev, Kapitsa, my friend the poet Yevgeny Yevtushenko and said that I regard the entry of Soviet troops as the German occupation of Czechoslovakia in 1938.

I called for an end to the invasion that offends the honest people of both countries. The speech was recorded by Western radio stations and broadcast to the USSR. Only Yevgeny Yevtushenko responded, who composed the poem "Tanks are moving through Prague." The rest were silent. And this is not surprising: fear permeated all life in the Soviet Union.

- And where did you meet Yevgeny Yevtushenko?

- In Irkutsk - during our trip. At that time, the poet was in disgrace, he was not even published for some time. We went with him to his performance at the Bratsk hydroelectric power station. Yevtushenko made a very strong impression, and he read poetry as if a volcano had erupted.

By the way, Eugene recently sent me his new book, but I can't make out his inscription... Could you help me? ( Unfortunately, I could not help - I was able to decipher only a few words. — Auth.).

- Pan Miroslav, did you really believe that your call to stop the invasion of Soviet troops could change something?

We were naive. They thought that it was possible to convince the Soviet leadership to carry out what they proclaimed in words. Now I understand that communism cannot be reformed. It is not fit for the human community. It's a disease. And the introduction of Soviet troops into foreign territory caused general hatred for the USSR.

Judging by my observations, a large people often shows loyalty to their own mistakes and a tendency to complacency. The consciousness of the greatness of the nation displaces respect for each individual. Small nations do not have this: on the one hand, they often experience an inferiority complex and bow before foreign countries, on the other hand, they have more prerequisites for development.

- It's no secret that the new government, which cleared the way, subjected its opponents to persecution. Has it affected you?

- Husak, with the support of the Soviet troops, began a policy of so-called normalization, which ended for Jiri and me in absolute isolation. From travelers we have turned into dissidents, we have become travel restrictions. Torn years - I don’t really like to talk about them. We were banned from publications and social work, expelled from the Writers' Union, terminated the contract for a book about Ceylon.

They wanted to remove even our books from the libraries and destroy them, but then they left them, only they deleted them from the catalogs. The already printed edition of Part of the World Beneath the Himalayas was kept in storage for a long time, they were going to be sent under the knife, but then they were put on sale through the Book Lovers Club.

They demanded repentance from us, insisted that we publicly support the new government, renounce what was said earlier, but this was out of the question. In retaliation for our intractability, we were constantly monitored and summoned for interrogations. Once, when I was once again interrogated by representatives of state security, I told them: "I survived during the hunt for skulls - I will survive your persecution."

We couldn't find any work. We lived on the money received from the sale of our equipment, things, books ... Later, Jiri got a job as a gardener, and I as a stoker. Brezhnev destroyed us for 20 years: we were not printed, we were not allowed on radio and television - we were like the dead, although we could have done so much more ...

“GAGARIN SAID HE JAVES US BECAUSE WE CAN TRAVEL FREELY”

- Jiri and I traveled around different countries for nine years and knew very well the fate of many emigrants. These were sad stories of people who left their homeland for various reasons. On the one hand, we did not want to repeat their fate, on the other hand, we believed that we were obliged to stay at home and work, fighting against the system, like dissidents.

— The Zlín Museum presents your self-published books created after 1968...

Jiri and I have a lot of unpublished material left. Left out of work, we began to retype it on a typewriter, adding photographs and drawings. Books were received. In 1975, two books about Ceylon (Sri Lanka) were published in this way. Only in 1990, after the “velvet revolution”, they were already normally released by a publishing house.

For years we wrote to the table, having no feedback from readers, publishers, and therefore no incentive. Therefore, travel notes about the Soviet Union, about Japan, about Indonesia never appeared. And today, 40 years later, there is no point in returning to them: both the people and the country have completely changed.

- I read that in Russia there was an exhibition of materials collected by you, among them four thousand previously banned photographs from the USSR. I called the Embassy of the Czech Republic in Ukraine, asked if the exhibition would be shown in Ukraine, they answered me that no...

- Exhibitions are held where they are invited. My photos were shown in Germany, Russia, Uzbekistan - a total of 20 countries. No one from Ukraine has shown any interest so far.

By the way, you are the first Ukrainian journalist with whom I communicate, although in my life I have given at least two thousand interviews for publications on five continents.

- In the museum, I noticed a photograph where you and your brother were traveling in Subcarpathian Rus back in the 30s, which is now part of Ukraine and is called Transcarpathia.

— Before World War II, it was the territory of Czechoslovakia. We then walked through the cities and mountains of Subcarpathian Rus, quenching our thirst for travel. Once we came to the Polish border, I ran into Poland for five steps and shouted to my brother: “I am abroad!”. So strong in me was the desire to see the world with which I went all my life ...

- I know that you met with Yuri Gagarin. Only not in Moscow and not even in Prague, but in Ceylon ...

We met him quite by accident. This was Yuri Gagarin's first trip to a capitalist country, if Ceylon could be called that at that time. Prior to this, cosmonaut number one had only visited Czechoslovakia. And Jiri and I were just making our Asian trip and getting to know the island.

The people who received Gagarin told him that Zikmund and Hanzelka were not far away, and Yuri came to us. We had beer in the car, we treated him, we started talking... Gagarin said that he had read all our books and was very jealous of us, because we can freely travel all over the world, see different countries, communicate with natives, and he has such an opportunity No. In general, the first cosmonaut gave the impression of a very good, pleasant young man.

Which traveler was your idol?

- My ideal in childhood was the traveler Emil Golub, a contemporary of Henry Stanley and David Livingston. I still keep his books in German and Czech. He died young. After our first trip to Africa and America, Jiri and I met his widow, who at that time was already 89 years old.

"THE MAN'S TRAVEL CHANGES: HE BECOMES MORE TOLERANT"

“Before 1968, we visited every continent except Australia. Therefore, it is logical that in the 90s of the last century I visited there three times. Then there were other trips and new meetings: in 2000, in Sri Lanka, he met science fiction writer Arthur Clark, and a year later he met Thor Heyerdahl. The whole day we talked with him in Guimar in his house on the island of Tenerife.

- Now the world is becoming standard, everything is the same around. For example, in the United Arab Emirates 30 years ago there were only sands and camels, and today you can hardly find both...

- Jiri and I saw the world in time: its former one no longer exists, it has become less interesting. I recently visited several places where I had been before, for example, I went to the Turkish city of Ephesus. When Ganzelka and I arrived there in 1959, there were only four tourists in the temple - Irzhi and I and two of our friends. And in 1998, there were 50 huge buses and thousands of tourists pushing each other to take pictures.

But progress cannot be stopped... Every time, returning from a trip, people perceive everything that happens at home more sharply: they have something to compare with. In addition, what he sees in foreign lands changes a person: he becomes more tolerant of other peoples, cultures, religions, begins to understand them ...

- In your books you often and warmly mention Prague, the Vltava River ... Why did you leave the capital and move to the provincial Zlín?

- For the first time Jiri and I came here in 1952 to the film studio to prepare the film. We spent seven or eight months here. It was a very snowy winter, we skied a lot. And I said to Jiri: “Listen, why do we live in Prague, and not here?”. There is nature, mountains, air, garden... I like to work in the garden with my own hands. All this is not available when you live in a city apartment. So we decided to move. I bought this house in Zlín from a director of a film studio who went to work in Prague and still live in it.

— What are you doing now, pan Miroslav?

- When my friend Jiri died ( in 2003. — Auth.), I didn't think I'd be back to work. I did not want to continue my literary activity, but a journalist friend found my unfinished manuscript in the archive and forced me to finalize it. So now I'm preparing another book for publication. In addition, our films with Ganzelka are released on DVD, and I write new comments on them - because in those difficult times, not everything could be told about ...

Kyiv - Prague - Zlin - Kyiv

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Thank you very much for the stories about the trips sent to the contest “The story of my trip” to my e-mail: [email protected]. Today - a report on a trip to the Czech Republic from Alexei Batuev. Of all my life memories, which most of all warm the soul and awaken the best feelings in the heart, these are memories of three trips to the absolutely amazing, fabulously beautiful country of the Czech Republic. […]

Thank you very much for the stories about the trips sent to the contest “The story of my trip” to my e-mail: [email protected].
Today - a report on a trip to the Czech Republic from Alexei Batuev.

Of all my life memories, which most of all warm the soul and awaken the best feelings in the heart, these are memories of three trips to the absolutely amazing, fabulously beautiful country of the Czech Republic.

This country was very lucky in that it was almost not affected by the second world war, the most destructive in the history of mankind, and, thanks to this, everything that was built since the early Middle Ages has been preserved unchanged on its territory. Of all European cities, the capital of the Czech Republic - Prague - has the largest old town, walking around which and admiring the beautiful buildings, you can see examples of absolutely all architectural styles.

In a relatively small area of ​​the Czech Republic, there are still more than two thousand medieval castles.

The country annually hosts medieval festivals with colorful carnival processions and knightly tournaments. The most famous of them is the Five Petal Rose Festival in Cesky Krumlov.

Feast of the Five Petal Rose in Cesky Krumlov

Medieval romance lovers - this is the place for you!
And, in my opinion, the most remarkable thing is that the Czech state, not possessing oil and gas reserves, as well as other natural resources, nevertheless provides its citizens with a very decent standard of living. Chekhov cannot be called workaholics, but the vast majority of the population lives in abundance. Life here flows calmly and measuredly, order reigns in everything. The Czechs do not have that rollicking prowess that is present among the Slavic brothers - Poles, Ukrainians, Russians. Perhaps the whole point is that the Czechs, as a rule, do not draw inspiration from strong strong drinks.

In the Czech Republic, the influence of German culture is very strongly felt, which the country has experienced throughout its centuries-old history. The Czech Republic was the only one of the Slavic states that was part of the Holy Roman Empire of the German nation, and the Czech kings were vassals of the German emperors. On the territory of the Czech Republic, starting from the XIII century, there lived a lot of immigrants from Germany and Austria. Many Czech cities, as well as cities in other countries of Eastern Europe (Poland, Slovakia, Romanian Transylvania) were founded and settled by German colonists. The 400-year stay of the Czech Republic as part of the Austrian Habsburg empire left a big imprint on the Czech mentality. In Czech cuisine, as in German, pork dishes with sour stewed cabbage are very popular. The Czechs, like the Germans, are tenderly and reverently in love with beer, and in terms of its consumption per capita, they rank first in Europe.

They joke: "We can lose the championship only in one case - if Bavaria leaves Germany and becomes an independent state." In general, the Czechs are such “Slavic Germans”. It is very remarkable that this relationship between Czech and German cultures is also personified by the most popular ruler in the history of the Czech Republic - the Czech king and, concurrently, the German Emperor Charles IV of Luxembourg, who ruled the country in the middle of the XIV century. On his father's side, this monarch descended from the family of the Dukes of Luxembourg, i.e. representatives of the German world, and on his mother's side he was a descendant of the most ancient Czech royal dynasty - the Přemyslids. It was under Charles IV that Prague became one of the most beautiful cities in Europe, and remains so to this day.

Perhaps the intro was too long. I'm going to start describing the trips themselves. I will dwell on the first two very briefly - they were only a prelude to the third. So, first things first.

A long time ago, in 1981, the stars were so well placed in the sky that I was incredibly lucky, and I received a ticket for a trip abroad. I’ll note right away that in those good old days, when the Soviet Union and the rest of the world were separated by the “iron curtain”, ordinary citizens, for well-known reasons, very rarely went beyond the borders of our glorious Fatherland, and when any of them had such a happy chance, our state carefully relieved citizens of the need to choose where, when and for how many days to go. Indeed, why break your head. In the era of historical materialism, Soviet citizens did not go where they most wanted to, but where the party, Komsomol and trade unions allocated vouchers.

So, the district committee of the Komsomol gave the Komsomol organization of our enterprise a ticket to Czechoslovakia. Fortunately for me, it was to Czechoslovakia, where I went in October 1981. To be honest, after this trip there are not many really vivid memories left, because sightseeing for Soviet tourists was not the main thing for which they went abroad. In the first place, as a rule (I do not want to generalize and speak for all my fellow citizens), was shopping, in the second - meetings with the labor collectives of a fraternal socialist country and visiting places associated with the names of leaders of the world communist movement, everything else - according to the residual principle.

Our group was lucky - the representative of the host who accompanied the group on the route was a very sweet and very energetic woman who made every effort to ensure that we not only successfully spent the currency we had, but also learned as much as possible about the history and culture of the country . The name of this nice lady has been erased from my memory, I only remember that in her main profession she was a school teacher and during the school holidays worked part-time in the field of tourism. I am very grateful to her - she was the first person who discovered the Czech Republic for me.

If my first trip to the Czech Republic took place as a result of a not entirely conscious choice, then the second one, which happened 24 years after the first one, in 2005, was the product of a long discussion and reaching a consensus with all my children and household members. Being by that time a well-established father of the family, I most resolutely intended to introduce my offspring to all the most beautiful things and feed them to the full with spiritual food.

And so, one fine day, I announced to them my proposal for a bus tour to the Czech Republic. The student daughter, who had never been anywhere before, except for Moscow (we have relatives there) and the Black Sea resorts, said thoughtfully: “Excursions? It must be so boring… It’s not for me.” But the son accepted the proposal with enthusiasm. Having inherited from me a craving for medieval romance (brave and generous knights, beautiful ladies, noble robbers, troubadours ... Well, you understand me ...) by the eighth grade of the school he became a fully accomplished lover of the fantasy genre and was very inspired by the opportunity to see all this fabulously medieval entourage for real. My wife, who last traveled abroad as long as I did (in her assets of the trip to Poland, Spain and Portugal), agreed rather quickly, especially since I very convincingly and eloquently described the beauties of the Czech Republic to her based on the memories that remained I have from the first trip. The low cost of the tour, announced by me, finally convinced her of the correctness of the choice, after which it was possible to start packing our bags.
And then, in short, our first family voyage to the Czech Republic went off without a hitch, with only "pluses" without a single "minus".

In a 10-day bus tour, we saw Prague (2 sightseeing tours around the city), Karlovy Vary, Marianske Lazne, Cesky Krumlov, Kutna Hora, Orlik, Zvikov and Zleby castles, underground caves of Moravian Kras and, in addition, on the way back, Polish Krakow . "A gallop through Europe" swept at full speed.

I am very grateful to fate for the fact that on this tour I was lucky to meet an absolutely amazing person - Vyacheslav Borisovich Perepelitsa - who was our group leader, i.e. representative of the tour operator who accompanied the group on the route. I am absolutely sure that this person knows everything about the Czech Republic. And there is absolutely no doubt that he loves this country and the people living in it very much. A man with a high level of erudition, an amazing sense of humor and self-irony, Vyacheslav Borisovich did everything so that those who were with him on the trip remained the most devoted fans of the Czech Republic until the end of their days. And he did it completely unobtrusively, as if gradually, without any pathos and false enthusiasm.

For those who want to learn more about the Czech Republic and the Czechs, I advise you to find and read the most interesting book by V.B. Perepelitsa “Watching the Czechs. Not beer alone…”. My son gave me this book, having bought it as a souvenir when he was with friends on a trip to St. Petersburg in 2011, i.e. 6 years after the trip. He knew how to please me. And, by the way, my son took this book with him on our next trip to the Czech Republic, which we carried out in the same composition in August 2012, but almost independently, not as part of a group. How I planned and prepared this trip, as well as how it went, I will tell in detail in the second part of my review.

Discount hotels here

There are a lot of interesting natural places in the Czech Republic that are suitable for a real trip or a short one-day outing. The Czechs themselves are constantly exploring the country, and in a hiking format: they climb mountains, raft down rivers, and participate in volunteer camps. In any wild corner of the Czech Republic, you will meet a family with a baby, a group of peppy old men and a fashionable couple with an energetic terrier. See the places where The Chronicles of Narnia was filmed, climb the highest mountain or wander into the deepest cave, find out what Bohemian Paradise looks like or try coffee in the mountains, which even the Austrians come for - do not be afraid to drive away from the cities you know, especially since Czech nature is especially beautiful in autumn.

How to plan a trip?

Hiking is very simple and convenient: absolutely all the paths in the country are marked with special signs of different colors (red, green, yellow, blue, and usually this is not related to the severity of a particular route), and at the intersections there are signs with the names of the nearest settlements or attractions and their distances. It is impossible to get lost, planning a route is easier than ever. There are four national parks in the Czech Republic. All of them are accessible to the public, although they have different zones - some tourists are not allowed to enter (signs will inform about this). Also, in national parks, you can’t go off the tourist paths and make a fire. In addition to national parks, there are many natural areas with less stringent visiting conditions - you can safely spend the night in a tent there.

The algorithm for planning any trip around the Czech Republic looks like this: find the settlements closest to the chosen natural place. A trouble-free Czech transport assistant will help you make a route to them idos.cz. Then hit this place on mapy.cz in the layer with marked tourist routes, explore local attractions (they are all marked on the map) and choose the color of the route. Mapy.cz is only available in the Czech version, but the common Slavic roots of google translate work wonders. Information points are also marked on the map, where you can get an analogue map of the area.

The highest mountain

Snowball(Sněžka) - part of the mountain range and the Krknoše National Park. This is the highest part of the Sudetes, and Sněžka itself is the highest mountain in the Czech Republic, 1602 meters, and it is located exactly on the border with Poland. The height is just right so that you can climb without any special preliminary physical preparation, and feel the joy of conquering the highest mountain in the country.

Climbing begins in a tourist village at the foot of the mountains - Pets-under-Snow. It consists mainly of guesthouses and ski rentals, while it has its own convenient and useful website - there you will find a map, tourist routes, discounts, places to stay and entertainment. Plan a whole day for the ascent. A blue tourist track leads from the village to the top of the mountain, at first gently sloping, and then more and more steep (for the lazy, you can take the funicular). The forest around changes, like in a geography textbook, to an increasingly arctic landscape (as does the weather, so don't forget to dress warmly) until all that's left is boulders and lichens.

From the opposite side of the mountain, the Poles rise, and all together you gather on the top of the cloud. There is a cafe that looks like a UFO and a post station - do not miss the opportunity to send a postcard to your friends from the highest point in the Czech Republic. You can go down another way - follow the yellow track, then turning onto the green one.

By the way, in addition to Snezhka, there are many other mountains and many tourist routes of varying difficulty, so lovers of mountain walks can safely stay for a couple of days, and in winter, of course, go skiing.

The deepest cave

To get to the Moravian Karst, you need to get to the city of Blansko, and from there move to the objects you are interested in on foot or by local buses. Visiting the caves of the Moravian Karst is paid - check the prices and timetables on the website, and keep in mind that during the tourist season, i.e. from May to September, it makes sense to book tickets a few weeks in advance. And one more thing: it is very cold in the caves, do not forget about warm clothes and shoes even in summer.

The biggest forest

Šumava(Šumava) - the largest national park in the Czech Republic, a huge forest on the border with Germany and Austria, the green roof of Europe. You can wander through this ancient and fabulous forest for several weeks at any time of the year: climb the mountains and look at the clouds lying like cotton wool in the valleys, pass through lakes, rivers and swamps, or just listen to the green noise.

For starters, you can see the main Šumava lakes. From Špičak go along the yellow road to Devil's lake, and further along the red - to Black. On the way you will pass the European watershed - a mountain range, on one side of which the rivers flow into the Black Sea, on the other - into the North. Both lakes are at an altitude of more than 1000 meters. Devil's Lake is called so because of the legend about the devil supposedly drowning here with a stone on his tail. Further along the same red trail you can get to the White Ravine waterfall (this is the highest waterfall in Sumava - 13 meters) and follow the yellow trail to the station Hamry-Hojsova Stráž.

You can walk along the canyon of the Otter River, full of rapids and waterfalls - a special Povydří trail has been created there, which goes from the village of Antýgl to Ceňkova Pila(red route). If you're lucky, you can meet the otters themselves.

Finally, it is worth exploring the surroundings of the largest Czech reservoir Lipno - drive to Lipno nad Vltavou. There you can also walk along the route along the crowns of trees and, in good weather, even see the Alps.

Site about Šumava from local enthusiasts.

White cliffs of southern Moravia

Palava(Pálava) are several low (549 meters) white limestone mountains in southern Moravia, on the border with Austria. They arose in the Mesozoic era, and in the Neolithic people already lived here. A local archaeological find, the clay figurine of Venus Vestonica is one of the most ancient pottery in the world.

The best way to get to Mikulov(Which in itself is worth a visit). In summer, a special express train (Expres Pálava - Podyjí) runs from Brno in the morning and in the evening - the journey takes only a few hours. From Mikulov you can move out on foot - this is a five-kilometer walk through spacious fields with vineyards (red tourist route).

On the way you will meet a place Kletnice with a cafe where people come to drink a cup of coffee even from Austria. The garden around the cafe looks like a magical place, but be careful - the prices here are comparable to a good Prague restaurant.

There are several hiking trails along the mountain range itself, both simpler and more difficult. We advise you to choose the one that goes through the entire "ridge" of the mountain (red) - it is more steep, but all the most interesting things are located on it: the symbol tree of Palava, the highest point (Děvín) with a breathtaking view of the entire southern Moravia and Novomlynske reservoir, ruins of the Děvičky castle. Then you can go down to the wine-growing village of Pavlov, reward yourself for a great trip with a glass (or bottle) of local white wine from the variety that bears the same name - Palava. By the way, the reservoir is a great place for windsurfing, in the middle of it there are artificially created islands for nesting birds and an island with a church - the top of the hill of the flooded village of Mushov.

Paradise branch

If you need to get the Czech experience in a concentrated form, namely to see many different castles in the middle of forests and mountains, then you Czech paradise and it's not a play on words. Bohemian Paradise (Český ráj) is a protected natural area in the north of the Czech Republic, 182 square kilometers of forest and rocks between the cities of Turnov, Jičín and Mnichovo Hradiště. Once upon a time, the sea splashed here and volcanoes erupted, but time and wind turned the seabed into bizarre rocks - however, sand under your feet can still be found. Entire cities are formed from rocks, others have their own names - Lighthouse or Dragon, for example. It is quite possible to explore this region for several days, especially since in addition to the rocks there are many different castles. The most famous are Trosky Castle (two towers on two rocks opposite each other) and Coast Castle, which often hosts medieval festivals.

Most Popular Here Prachovské Rocks(Prachovské skály). This is a very beautiful rocky city, which has viewing platforms and the Parzhez castle carved into the rocks themselves. The place is also popular with climbers. It is better to explore this region from the city of Prachov along the green or red route.

The second large popular group is the Rough Rock - the path to it lies along the blue path from the Hrubá skála railway station of the same name.

Territory Czech Republic has been inhabited for thousands of years and is a land dotted with castles, medieval towns, beautiful mountains, ancient ruins and world-class wineries.

Every year more and more tourists come to the country, but they mainly visit Prague. As soon as you leave this beautiful (but touristy) city, you will discover an inexpensive country and one of the most beautiful countries in Europe. If you dare visit the Czech Republic, you will probably come to Prague, but be sure to leave the city and see what is hidden from the eyes of an ordinary tourist!

Standard costs in the Czech Republic

The cost of housing in the Czech Republic– Prices in hostels in the Czech Republic will vary depending on where exactly you want to stay: starting from 175 CZK in small towns and up to 400 CZK in Prague. Usually every hostel has free Wi-Fi and a kitchen where you can cook your own food.

A budget hotel will start from 500-700 CZK per night, and usually includes free WiFi (prices will vary depending on which city you're in, with Prague prices being the highest).

Expect to pay around CZK 900 per night for a budget hotel that offers free breakfast. can be found in major cities, although the vast majority of apartments are located in Prague. Prices for apartments in the Czech Republic with shared accommodation with owners start from 450 CZK per night. If you want to rent an entire house or apartment, expect to pay at least 1500 CZK per night.

For those who travel with a tent, there are campgrounds scattered throughout the country - the cost starts from 200 CZK per night.

Food in the Czech Republic- Czech cuisine does not stand out for its frills, it is very similar to our usual food, but quite tasty. A plate of dumplings and goulash with gravy will keep you full throughout the day. For a cheap meal in an inexpensive restaurant, expect to pay around 120 kr. A nicer meal at a mid-range restaurant will cost more than 300 kr. For fast food (like McDonald's) you will pay more than for cheap local food, as fast food usually costs around 130 crowns. If you're looking for a quick bite, there are numerous kebab/shawarma stalls for under 120 kr. Buying food for a week will cost about 1,000-1,200 CZK if you buy Czech goods in a grocery store. To keep things simple and cheap, you can easily find local sausages and cheese, and build yourself a quick sandwich.

Transport. Most cities in the Czech Republic have an extensive tram system with roots in the communist past. Prague also has a metro, which is quite easy to use, with three lines that go to all local points of interest. A one-way ticket is 24 CZK for a 30-minute trip or 32 CZK for a 90-minute one. An unlimited 24-hour pass costs 110 kr. Traveling by train between cities is very easy, just don't expect modern comfortable carriages. Buy tickets at the station in advance if possible to get the best fare. For example, a ticket from Prague to Brno will cost less than 300 CZK. Intercity buses are a cheap alternative way to travel. From Prague to Vienna up to 500 CZK and a bus to Berlin is less than 600 CZK.

Events- Traveling in most Czech cities, you will meet not only local attractions, but also more imbued with local culture. After grabbing a beer at a local pub, you'll stroll through the cobbled streets and marvel at gothic, modern and communist architecture. The country is still on the Czech crown so prices are very affordable. There are also many free walking trails throughout the country for those who want to spend time in nature. Most museums and tours will set you back between 60-800 CZK, although more extreme tourism like white water rafting will run closer to 2000 CZK.

Recommended daily budget– 1,025-1,285 CZK / 39-50 USD (Note: this is a suggested budget, assuming you stay at a hostel, eat a little dinner, mostly eat your own meals, and use local transportation. By following the tips below, you can always save this amount However, if you rent an apartment and a hotel room and eat more often, expect this amount to be higher!)

Buy tickets in advance– if you are traveling within the country by train or bus, check and book or travel by train or in advance to take advantage of student benefits or early booking discount. Buses and trains are quite a popular mode of transport among locals, so they sell out quickly - another reason why it is recommended to buy a ticket ahead of time.

Eat local food– Stop by a local bar for a plate of goulash and a pint of beer, and dine for 245 CZK. Do not hesitate to try local food at reasonable prices, and one plate will be enough for you to keep up the energy for the whole day.

Take your international student ISIC with you. Many Czech cities, especially Prague, are student cities. Because of this, you will find many discounts for those who study at the university. Present your student ID at museums and shops and you will save money.

Walking tours. The Czech Republic is rapidly becoming a tourist destination, and free walking tour organizations have established branches throughout the country. This is actually a great way to learn about the city and its history, so enjoy the stories and don't forget to give your guide a small tip at the end if you enjoyed the tour!

Walk the streets on your own. There are plenty of free walking trails throughout the country for those who want to walk the streets. The Czech Tourist Club has created maps for all the main routes, so take one if you want to walk.

The best things to see and do in the Czech Republic

Czech Republic places map

Prague

The capital and the most famous city in the country, has become one of the most popular tourist destinations in Europe. Come here and walk along the medieval streets, enjoy the old buildings that survived the Second World War. Local food is the main attraction, although the main attraction is beer, for which most tourists come. Climb up the mountain to visit Prague Castle, take a look at the astronomical clock and get ready for an eccentric nightlife that is second to none.

Visit Ceský Krumlov - sights of the Czech Republic

This city is located on the Vltava River and is a smaller but more picturesque version of Prague. Medieval architecture and red-roofed buildings make a beautiful picture for your photos, and walking the streets is a great way to slow down time during your trip. There are many beautiful resorts here, as well as lodges that are great for snowy winters.

Visit Kutná Hora - sights of the Czech Republic

This historic city is home to the famous Cathedral of St. Barbara, which is adorned with thousands of human bones. While it may be a bit creepy, this is truly a place you must see for yourself. Admission is 60 kr for adults and 40 kr for students.

Try some pilsner beer in Pilsen

You guessed it: Pilsen is the birthplace of Plzner beer and the home of the original Czech beer, Pilsner Urquell. You can go here from Prague by bus or train. During your visit, be sure to visit not only the Pilsner factory, but also visit the beer spa resorts, where you will literally be soaked in beer. Expect to pay around CZK 800 for a beer bath.

Sip wine in the Moravian region

Although you only think of beer when you travel to the Czech Republic, the Moravian Region is actually very famous for its wine. This is a great option for a bike ride or a wander through the vineyards. Many tours offer tasting options while visiting the area. Prices vary depending on whether you visit one vineyard or several, and whether you organize the tour yourself or hire a guide. For a multi-variant multi-day sightseeing tour, prices can reach 5000 CZK.

Karlstein Castle - sights of the Czech Republic

Everyone wants to have their own fairy tale and this castle is a great stop on your tour of the country, just a short train ride from Prague. Admission for adults - 270 CZK, with discounts for students, pensioners and families.

Hike to Adršpach-Teplice rocks

Hike around these natural sandstone formations such as the Giant Chair and Sugar Cone. There are two clusters of formations: Adrspach Rock Town and Teplitz Rock Town. The train from Prague costs about 275 crowns and the journey takes less than 3 hours.

Outdoor adventure in the Krkonoše

Summer or winter, a trip to the Krkonoše is a must. This beautiful mountain range, which runs along the Czech-Polish border, is the highest peak in the country. In the summer you can do a lot of hiking and biking, and in the winter you can go skiing.

Trip to the Renaissance town of Telč

Telc, with its winding cobblestone streets, is one of the most exemplary examples of a Renaissance town in Europe. It is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. After a fire in 1530, the city was rebuilt, so medieval arcades with their gabled houses surround the picturesque town square.

Visit the quaint Olomouc - sights of the Czech Republic

Olomouc is a small university town famous for its parks, churches, sculptures and fountains. The Holy Trinity Column and the great astronomical clock are UNESCO sites.

Relax in the spa in Karlovy Vary

The Karlovy Vary Spa Resort offers hot mineral springs, beautiful baroque and gothic architecture, forest walks and a lively cultural scene. There is also a castle in nearby Loket, overlooking the river Ore.

Enjoy the Šumava National Park

Pack your bags and go hiking in Šumava, the largest national park in the country. This is a region full of densely populated hills along the border with Austria. Take a dip in picturesque lakes, trout streams, virgin forest areas and important historical monuments. Entrance to the park is free.

Visit a nuclear bunker

The museum is located in a five-story building located in Prague and is full of Cold War paraphernalia. The bunker was designed to house civilians during a nuclear attack, after which they could then escape to a nearby village. The tour lasts a couple of hours and costs 600 kr for adults (500 kr for students).