Like from Amsterdam to Haarlem. Church of St.
Haarlem is more beautiful than Amsterdam! That's all you need to know about this city 🙂 No, not everything. It is in Haarlem that our friends Richard and Caroline live, it was from them that we were infected with the heretical idea that Haarlem is better than Amsterdam, and it was at them that we stayed during our trip to Holland. Therefore, perhaps, we know Haarlem better than other cities in the Netherlands. In today's article, we will share this knowledge with you.
City of Haarlem, Netherlands: attractions, photos and hotels, what to see and how to get there
About Haarlem in a nutshell
In our ranking of the most beautiful towns in Holland, Haarlem is on the same (first) line with Delft. The population of Haarlem is 150 thousand people, it is located just 20 km west of Amsterdam. Sometimes this city is called Haarlem or Gaarlem, and it is in his honor that the famous New York district of Harlem is named. Yes, the Dutch once lived there)
Like many small (by Russian standards, of course) cities in the Netherlands, Haarlem has retained its medieval architecture and unique appearance. In Haarlem and its environs, several old mills have been preserved, on the stunningly beautiful Grote Markt, a market has been raging on Saturdays for many centuries, and the local Bakenessergracht canal is considered the most beautiful in Holland. Who is considered, you ask? Harlems, of course!
And in general, as it seemed to us, the inhabitants of Haarlem (including) not only love their city and are proud of it, but also look a little down on a noisy, hectic neighbor named Amsterdam. In Russia, something like this, of course, is hard to imagine (“The inhabitants of Mytishchi look down on Moscow,” how do you like it?). But for Holland this is a common thing, and there is even something to love and be proud of in Haarlem. This is not just a very beautiful city, where a simple walk through the streets can bring aesthetic pleasure: it is full of interesting sights. We will tell you about them now.
Probably my favorite photo of Haarlem.
The main attractions of Haarlem
During its thousand-year history (the first mentions date back to the 10th century), Haarlem has acquired many interesting places. There are plenty of attractions in Haarlem, here we will briefly talk about the 5 main ones, a link to a more detailed article is waiting for you below.
Grote Markt main square
A small but very beautiful Grote Markt market square is not one, but a whole set of attractions! After all, several interesting historical buildings are located on this square at once. The most famous of them are the Church of St. Bavo, the Town Hall, the House of the City Guard and the Meat Rows (former meat market, now a museum). As already mentioned, on Saturdays there is a food market where you can buy any food, from cheeses and herring to fruits and vegetables.
Church of Saint Bavo
The main church of Haarlem deserves a separate story. This Gothic temple was built in the 14th century, but was badly damaged by fire and was restored in the 15th-16th centuries, and in 1961, after another restoration, it was returned to its original appearance. The height of the bell tower is 80 meters. The organ of the church of St. Bavo is considered the most beautiful in the world, it was played by Mozart, Handel and Mendelssohn.
On Saturdays, there is a market on the Grote Markt near the church of St. Bavo (pictured in the center).
amsterdam gate
The Amsterdam (or West) Gate is the only one of the twelve gates of the city wall of Haarlem that has survived to this day. Built in the 14th century, at that time the road from the capital to Haarlem passed through them.
It was from these gates that the good old Haarlem once began.
main station
As in many European cities, Haarlem train station is a real work of architectural art. It was built at the beginning of the 20th century on the oldest railway line in the country, Amsterdam-Haarlem. In 2004, several scenes of the film Ocean's Twelve were filmed here.
In the Hollywood blockbuster, the Harlem station "played" the Amsterdam station, where the heroes of Brad Pitt and George Clooney were waiting for the train.
Hadrian's Mill
The local industrialist Adrian de Boys, after whom the attraction is named, built a huge beautiful windmill in 1779. At different times, cement, paint, snuff were produced here, and even (you won’t believe it!) Grinded grain, and in 1932 the mill burned down completely. At the beginning of the 21st century, it was restored according to historical drawings, and now it again adorns the banks of the Sparna River.
The 30-meter-high Adrian's Mill (De Adriaan) is also an excellent observation deck with a panoramic view of Haarlem.
Haarlem also has the most beautiful canal and the oldest museum in Holland; the red light district and the brewery in the church! Details are in our article:
Map of Haarlem with attractions
How to get to Haarlem from different cities in Holland
As already mentioned, the distance between Haarlem and Amsterdam is only 20 km. And if the devil's thirst for adventure has brought you to the capital of the Netherlands, you simply must make the handsome Haarlem happy with at least a one-day visit. It is easy to get to Haarlem and from other cities. We will briefly talk about how to get to Haarlem from the main cities of Holland, as well as the cost of tickets and travel time. Check the train schedule and current prices on the website Dutch Railways .
1. How to get from Amsterdam to Haarlem
The most convenient way to get from Amsterdam to Haarlem is by train from Amsterdam Centraal station. Travel time - 15-20 minutes, ticket price - from 4.5 euros, trains scurry one after another.
2. How to get from Eindhoven to Haarlem
There are no direct trains from Eindhoven to Haarlem. You need to go with a transfer at the Amsterdam Centraal station (as a rule, it takes no more than 15 minutes). Ticket price - from 22 euros, travel time, including transfers - an average of 1 hour 45 minutes.
3. How to get from The Hague to Haarlem
But from The Hague to Haarlem full of direct trains. The journey takes from 36 to 43 minutes, the price of a second class ticket is 8.9 euros.
4. How to get from Haarlem to Leiden
And here everything is very simple and convenient: trains between the Haarlem and Leiden Centraal stations run constantly, the journey takes about 20 minutes, the ticket costs from 6.2 euros.
Haarlem is the same Holland that travelers dream about at night.
A photo of Haarlem is a classic image of the Netherlands: boats, canals and low "triangular" houses.
There are never enough Dutch houses!
Where to stay in Haarlem
Hotels in Haarlem are a separate issue: when coming to Holland, many travelers (like us) prefer to stay here rather than in Amsterdam. Because it’s cheaper and the city is beautiful, and it’s also convenient to get to many beautiful places from here: The Hague, Leiden, Delft and this one, like him ... Exactly, Amsterdam! The reverse is also true: many of the tourists you meet on the streets of Haarlem stop in Amsterdam and come here for a day - to wander along the beautiful streets and take a break from the eternal bustle of the city of sins and crazy cyclists.
On the Dutch (did you know about it?) booking system Booking.com you will find hundreds of hotels for every taste and budget in each of these cities. Choose, book and have a happy trip to visit the old lady of Holland!
Even on weekends, when the streets are full of people, Haarlem remains a quiet, calm town. Compared to Amsterdam, of course.
Located on the Grote Markt, the Church of St. Bavo is rightfully considered one of the most interesting and impressive buildings in the Dutch city of Haarlem, and is also an important historical and architectural monument and is included in the "Top 100 Dutch heritage sites".
Originally built as a Catholic parish church, in 1559 it became the Catholic Cathedral of Haarlem, and less than 20 years later, during the Reformation, it was confiscated from the Catholic community in favor of the Protestants, whose property it has been since then.
A small parish church on the Grote Markt supposedly existed as early as the 9th century, but the first mention of the Church of St. Bavo as a rather large Romanesque building with an imposing bell tower, which was used as a watchtower by Haarlem firefighters, dates back to 1245. However, this building was heavily damaged by fires in the 14th century. The elegant building in the Gothic style, which we see today, and its impressive, almost 80-meter bell tower, which is visible from almost anywhere in the city, were built in 1370-1520. So, for example, the choir was built in 1370-1400, and the transept and nave were built in the 15th century in several stages. The original stone tower was erected at the beginning of the 16th century, but proved too heavy for load-bearing supports and by 1520 it was replaced with a wooden, lead-covered structure. For security reasons, stone vaults were also abandoned here (in the church of St. Bavo, the nave and choir have a rib vault made of cedar wood).
During the Reformation, the interior of the Church of St. Bavo underwent dramatic changes, as the Protestants were intolerant of religious images, and in general they did not approve of the rather luxurious design of Catholic churches. Several centuries later, mainly thanks to the paintings of local artists of that time, the original interior of the church was restored, but only partially.
Until 1831, burials were held in the church of St. Bavo, as a rule, of famous and influential residents of Haarlem. You will also find here the tomb of Frans Hals, one of the outstanding artists of the Dutch Golden Age.
The main pride of the Church of St. Bavo is its famous organ, created in 1735-1738 by the talented German master Christian Müller. The stucco decorations and gilding are the work of the Dutchman Jan van Logteren. At the time of its creation, it was the largest organ in the world. Many famous musicians played this amazing instrument, including Mendelssohn, Handel and Mozart when he was only ten years old.
It is one of the oldest cities in the Netherlands and has been in existence for over a thousand years. It has preserved a lot of historical monuments, but we have compiled for you the top ten of them.
Grotemarkt(Grote Markt)
Grotemarkt is considered the center of the city, where roads from different parts of it flock. In addition, many Dutch claim that this square is the most beautiful square in Europe. At the beginning of the 12th century, when Haarlem was still a village, the count of Holland decided to build a hunting castle here, and to hold jousting tournaments on the square.
Stadhuis(Stadhaus - city government)
Grote Markt 2
Initially, the castle was wooden and was located on the site of Stadhuis. In the 14th century there was a fire and the castle was almost completely burned down. The city administration rebuilt it (already from stone), and since 1370 it has been using it for its own needs. The porch on the left leads to Gravenzaal (Hrafenzal - Count's Hall), in this room Count Floris lived. On the right side of the porch of the extension, which previously housed the small and large courts. Above the windows is a statue of the goddess Justice, adjoining the building on the right is the building of the former police. To the left of Stadhäus is a former monastery.
You can get to the Count's Hall at the Open Monumentendag (the second weekend of September) or during the Christmas Market (the second Saturday of December).
De Grote Sant Bavokerk(De Hrote Sant Bavo kerk - Great Church of St. Bavo)
Grote Markt 22
The main church of the city is De Grote Sant Bavokerk, which stands out for its size against the general background of the city.
In 1370 the construction of the church was started and only by 1505 the church was built. The inhabitants wanted not only a large church, but also a church tower. To facilitate the construction, the tower was made of wood. One statue survived on the building - the statue of St. Bavo. Either they could not get to it, or the inhabitants were afraid to anger the patron of the city. The statue of Bavo can be seen above the entrance from the Oudegroen markt (Oudehrun markt). In 1738, Christian Müller built a delightful organ here, which was played by ten-year-old Wolfgang Mozart in 1766. The greatest artist of the 17th century, Frans Hals, is buried in the church.
Opening hours: Monday - Saturday 10.00 - 17.00
Entrance ticket: adult - 2.50 euros, up to 12 years old - free of charge, from 12 to 16 years old - 1.75 euros.
Vleeshaal(Fleishal - Meat Rows)
Grote Markt 18k
In the 16th century, butchers traded meat and other animal products on the street, but this did not suit them for a long time: because of the flies, the meat quickly deteriorated, cats and dogs tried to steal a tidbit. The Butchers Guild turned to the city authorities with a request to give them a place for building and entrusted the construction to the famous architect Lieven de Kay. In 1602, three burgamirs laid the first stone of the building and exactly one year later the Meat Rows were opened. In those days, such decoration of the building was too bold and did not please the residents. For a long time they called the Meat Row the ugliest building in Haarlem, today the most beautiful.
Frans Hals Museum(Frans Hals Museum - Frans Hals Museum)
Groot Heiligland 62
The Frans Hals Museum is considered one of the best museums in the Netherlands, which contains the works of the masters of the Golden Age. Frans Hals was born in Antwerp but has lived his entire life in Haarlem. The museum contains works by various artists, in addition, you can see interior items from the 16th - 17th centuries, as well as a doll house that belonged to Sarah Roté and was her outlet. In its creation, expensive materials were used - silver, gold, pearls, porcelain, jacquard fabrics and precious woods.
The museum was opened in 1862 in the building of a former monastery, next to Stadhäus. In 1913, the museum moved to the former Orphanage, where it remains today.
Opening hours: Tuesday - Saturday 11.00-17.00, Sunday 12.00-17.00.
Entrance ticket: adult - 12.5 euros, under 18 years old - free of charge, from 19 to 24 (inclusive) - 6 euros, group (from 15 people) - 9 euros. Prices are subject to change due to temporary exhibitions.
teylers museum(Taylers Museum - Taylor Museum)
Spaarne 16
The Taylor Museum is not only one of the best in the country, but also the first museum in the Netherlands. Peter Theiler was a successful businessman and banker, and had an expensive hobby - science. He collected archaeological finds, scientific apparatus, paintings and books. In his will, he ordered the construction of a museum on the banks of the Sparne River, where the entire collection would be transferred. In 1784 the museum opened its doors. Today you can see here: stones of the Mesozoic era and minerals, a dinosaur skeleton found in the Meuse River, all kinds of scientific apparatus of the 18th century. There is also a collection of paintings, including works by Rembrandt and Michelangelo.
Opening hours: Tuesday - Saturday 10.00 - 17.00, Sunday 12.00 - 17.00
Entrance ticket: adult - 12 euros, from 6 to 17 years old - 2 euros, up to 6 years old - free of charge, group ticket (from 10 people) - 9.50 euros.
Bakkenessergracht(Bakeneserhracht - Bakeneser Canal)
Another attraction of the city is the Bakeneser Canal. It was here that the Dutch built their first houses more than a thousand years ago and laid the foundation for the history of Haarlem. Despite the fact that the canal is located in the very center of the city, today it is quiet and comfortable here, but this was not always the case. In the old days it was very noisy here. Peasants from neighboring villages brought their cattle here for sale. Various workshops and breweries stood along the canal. The canal was a living artery of the city, cargo was transported along it. Wooden cranes stood outside the breweries to help unload the barges.
Molen De Adriaan(Molen De Adrian - Hadrian's windmill)
Papentorenvest 1a
The mill was built in 1779 and got its name from its owner. The mill was located at the city wall next to the river gates to the city. It was used to grind peat, shell, tobacco, and later, to grind grain. On April 20, 1932, the mill burned down completely and was restored in 2002. Now there is a museum that tells about the work of the mills.
The entrance ticket costs 4.5 euros for an adult, children under 4 years old are free, from 4 to 11 - 1 euro.
Opening hours: Monday - Friday from 13.00 to 17.00, Saturday-Sunday 10.30 - 17.00. Tuesday is a day off.
Changes are possible in the work, check the information on the website http://www.molenadriaan.nl/en/guided-tours-prices.
De Waag(De Waah - Weight)
Damstraat 29
The weight room played a very important role in the development of the city and was built in 1597. Large scales were located on the ground floor and all goods first fell into the Vesovaya, where they weighed it and determined the amount of tax to the city treasury. After that, the goods fell on various markets of the city. Today there is a restaurant on the ground floor and an exhibition hall on the second floor (admission is free).
Amsterdamse poort(Amsterdamse Port - Amsterdam Gate)
approximately Spaarnwouderstraat 99
The Amsterdam Gate was built around 1400. The gate was the end of the road from Amsterdam to Haarlem, which is how it got its name. Today, the Amsterdam Gate is the only surviving of the twelve gates of the city. All other gates were dismantled, and there was simply not enough money for the reconstruction of this part of the city. It is also believed that it was at this gate that Kenau Haselaer fought against the Spaniards during the siege of Haarlem.
I realized that I was starting to go to the same places. So it's time to get out of the Grand Ring of Canals. I promised my ex before the trip that we would definitely visit tulip paradise. So, the most convenient way to get to Keukenhof is through Haarlem. But I decided to arrange in Haarlem not just a transfer from the train from Amsterdam to the bus to, but also a little walk around the city itself.
The easiest way to get from Amsterdam to Haarlem is by train. Trains to Haarlem depart from the Amsterdam Centraal train station (Amsterdam Central). Trains to Haarlem run every 7 - 8 minutes, so even if you miss a train, you won't have to wait long for the next one. Haarlem is very close to Amsterdam, so the journey will take only 15 - 20 minutes.
The first thing a tourist meets in Haarlem is an impressive building. station resembling a medieval fortress. It is clear that there is no smell of the Middle Ages here, the rear ones were built at the beginning of the 20th century in the Art Nouveau style. The station was featured in the famous film "Ocean's 12", where he "played" the role of the Amsterdam station.
From the train station to the center of Haarlem, 10-15 minutes on foot. The streets near the station are quite decent and picturesque, so the road is not tiring at all.
As in any normal Dutch city, Haarlem is full of canals.
But this place on Jansstraat is worth a visit, although if you don’t know, it’s easy to pass by. There is a cozy courtyard with Janskerk.
Now the state archive is located here, but the entrance is free from the street.
I don't think much has changed in this courtyard in five hundred years.
Very close to the center of Haarlem.
17th century houses on Jaanstraat decorated with heads.
But on the central the Grote Markt we were disappointed. Everything was lined with stupid rides, so nothing really could be filmed or seen. It's a pity, because Grote Markt is one of the most beautiful squares in all of the Netherlands.
Peeking out in the background town hall Harlem.
The town hall was completed over several centuries, and now it essentially consists of several buildings that do not fit together too well. The facade of the building is decorated with a statue of Themis with a sword and scales.
Another notable building on the square is meat rows. The structure, simple in form, has a rich decor, looks great.
No matter how hard I tried, but completely withdraw church of st. Bavona I could not get. I already wrote about St. Bavo of Ghent in my story about, I will not repeat myself here. The Gothic church is very impressive, one 80-meter bell tower is worth something.
Churches in the Netherlands are usually not very interesting inside, the activity of the iconoclasts, who during the Reformation destroyed the magnificent Catholic decoration, affects. But it's definitely worth visiting. Inside the church is a huge organ, once it was the largest in the world. Mozart himself in his youth came to play in Haarlem on this organ.
Model sailboats hang from the ceiling.
In addition to the organ, I also really liked the choirs of the church.
They are decorated with funny wooden sculptures.
And this is just some kind of "alien".
Look at the floor. Almost every slab in the church is someone's grave. The most famous person buried in the church is the famous painter Frans Hals. Hals lived almost all his life in Haarlem, his museum is located here (in the building of the Meat Row, which I showed above).
Picturesque streets depart from the Grote Markt. The historic center of Haarlem is perfectly preserved, modern buildings are almost invisible.
In 2013, I just switched to compact mirrorless cameras. Until I decided on the system, I dragged two cameras on this trip at once: Sony NEX-7 and Fuji E-X1.
Honestly, I liked walking along the streets of Haarlem much more than walking along. Somehow it is more comfortable and sincere here, there are fewer tourists and wild cyclists.
The city center is very compact, so we soon explored it and decided on Sparna river get back to the station.
The building on the right is the local Vag. Like in Haarlem Waag performed an important function of controlling measures and weights.
The Sparna embankment is also beautiful.
The most beautiful bridge in Haarlem - Gravestenenbrug. In translation, something like a "castle" bridge. Remember?
Haarlem from A to Z: map, hotels, attractions, restaurants, entertainment. Shopping, shops. Photos, videos and reviews about Haarlem.
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In cheerful Amsterdam, the capital of the Netherlands, it is easy to get tired of the bustle and influx of tourists. I want to be in peace and quiet, to feel the spirit of antiquity away from the metropolitan whirlwind. And it's not far to go for all this! Just 20 km from Amsterdam is Haarlem, which has all the listed advantages. And not only as a means of changing the scenery, this sweetest city deserves attention, many people go to the capital of North Holland to thoughtfully examine all the local beauties.
How to get to Haarlem
Of course, it is most convenient to go from Amsterdam, trains to the destination go very often (5-6 times per hour) and only 15 minutes. Traveling in second class will cost you 4.30 EUR one way, and in first class - 7 EUR. You can take the train at Amsterdam Central Station or at Schiphol Airport. In this case, the trip will take about half an hour and cost 6 EUR (9 EUR in first class), but the main thing is that you will have to transfer to another train at Amsterdam Sloterdijk station. So, when traveling to Haarlem from Schiphol, it is better to use bus number 300. (It also passes through Amsterdam, by the way.) The large red Zuidtangent express trains are distinguished by high comfort and speed, which is achieved by specially designed routes along bus lines not busy with city traffic jams. The whole journey to Haarlem will take 40 minutes maximum and will cost about 4-5 EUR. Please note: a ticket that allows you to travel all day costs 7 EUR, there is a benefit if several trips are expected. Prices on the page are for September 2018.
Don't forget that you are in the Netherlands. Here you can rent not only a car, but also a bicycle. It will take you longer to get to Haarlem on it, depending, of course, on your capabilities, but hardly less than an hour, but you will be more mobile in your movements around the city. But you can’t ride a bike in the Keukenhof flower park, located not far from the city, but in Haarlem - please!
Search for flights to Leiden (nearest airport to Haarlem)
Cuisine and restaurants in Haarlem
Traditionally, most cafes, patisseries and restaurants are concentrated around the Grote Markt, the historic center of the city. The most curious of them is Het theehuis, which has preserved almost untouched furnishings from the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The food in all cafes is very high quality, the prices are not much higher than in similar establishments in other parts of the city. Again, you can always have a snack on the go with the most delicate herring from the stalls painted in the colors of the Dutch flag - they are distributed throughout the country.
If the soul asks for something sweet, then it makes sense to visit the Rykenberg confectionery, where you can buy a cake for literally 2-3 EUR. This cafe-shop is clearly liked by the townspeople: many buy pastries to take away. In the Ringers confectionery there is less excitement, and the products are no worse, moreover, they are supplemented with all kinds of chocolates and sweets. For a quick snack, the ubiquitous McDonald's or the local Broodmand is suitable. Those who are going to dine at the restaurant can be offered a luxurious Subliem, but only if you are ready to pay an average of about 16 EUR per serving for national dishes. An alternative could be Falafel Land, Jacobus Pieck, Grand Cafe Nobel and others.
Weather in Haarlem
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Shopping and stores
Of the large shopping centers in Haarlem, one can single out Wikelcentrum Schalkwijk and many large malls such as Dekamarkt (Centrum stop), where you can buy food, clothes, shoes, household goods (pay attention to De Kunstboer) and much more. Cheese, of course, can be bought at any supermarket or market, or you can go to the cozy Kaas Winkeltje shop. And eating the purchased product is especially tasty with coffee, which is an excellent choice here. You can verify this in the De Kale Jonker shop on Zijlstraat, coming from the Grote Markt.
And on this square, in fact, there is a paradise for tourists who pick up gifts and souvenirs. On Saturday and Monday, an extensive market unfolds here, where, like in the good old days, you can buy whatever your heart desires. On Monday (here it is generally a market day) and Friday, the same transformation takes place with the Botermarkt square, turning into a farmers' market. Flower growers, attention: it is in the markets that you can buy tulip bulbs.
Guides in Haarlem
Popular hotels in Haarlem
Entertainment and attractions in Haarlem
The sights of Haarlem literally start from the train station. It was rebuilt several times, and the last time in the Art Nouveau style, which made an ordinary building a real architectural monument.
Further on the list of obligatory historical objects is the Grote Markt market square with the Town Hall, which is obligatory for all European cities, and the monumental Cathedral of St. Bavo. Do not confuse it with the Gothic church of St. Bavo (aka the Church of Sint Bavo, aka the Grote Kerk), which houses a huge organ that Mozart, Handel and Liszt once played. By the way, both buildings deserve attention. Just like St. Anne's Church, Villa Velgelegen, Hadrian's Mill, Amsterdam Gate, St. Elizabeth's Hospital, which now houses the Historical Museum.
Not so long history - the Second World War - can be remembered in the museums of Anne Frank and Corrie ten Boom. Visit the Teyler Museum, the Museum of Industrial Art and the Museum of the Franz Hals painter, which is not far from some of the narrowest and most beautiful streets of the city. And if possible, go to Haarlem in the spring, when the flower parade takes place there in April.
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